Filament setting is a fundamental skill without which it is impossible to get a quality stitch on a sewing machine. Even the most expensive and modern machine Brother or Janome It will not work properly if the refueling is made with errors. Many beginners face breaks, loops and passing stitches precisely because of the improper passage of the thread through the mechanisms.
In this article, we will discuss the configuration process in detail. top-and-bottomLet’s look at common mistakes and how to fix them. Understanding the physics of the process will help you avoid nervous breakdowns during sewing. You will learn to adjust tension and diagnose problems by the appearance of the seam.
Before you start work, make sure that the needle is set correctly, with a blunt end in the appropriate direction (usually back or right, depending on the model). The thread is always refueled with the raised leg, since it is in this position that the tension discs are open. If you ignore this rule, the thread will fall wrong, and sewing will be impossible.
Preparation for refueling: the choice of needle and thread
The quality of the seam directly depends on the compliance of consumables with the type of fabric. Using a too thick thread in a thin needle will result in permanent breaks, and a thin thread in a wide ear will dangle and create loops. First, pick up sewing-needle The right size: for light fabrics (silk, chiffon) suited numbers 70-80, for jeans and coat fabrics - 90-110.
The thread must be wound evenly on the coil. If you use old stocks, check them for strength: pull the thread with your hands, it should not break with light effort. Rotten threads will spoil the fabric and fill the machine mechanism with pile. It is also important to consider the type of material: knitwear requires a thread with the addition of elastan or a special stretch variation.
⚠️ Warning: Never use threads with knots or thickenings - they can get stuck in a shuttle mechanism, which will require complex disassembly of the machine to extract.
The process of installing the coil holder also has its nuances. On vertical holders, the thread must go counterclockwise (when viewed from above) so as not to twist. On horizontal spools, it is important that the thread comes out freely, not clinging to the edges of the plastic insert.
Filling the top thread: a step-by-step algorithm
The most important step is to conduct the thread through the top of the machine. The route is usually indicated by numbers on the body, but understanding the logic of the process is more important than following the mechanical circuit. First, the thread is carried through the upper nitrogen ruler, then lowered down to the regulator. thread-tension.
It is critical to thread between tension discs. To do this, the thread is led into the slot, and then sharply pulled back and down so that it “dives” between the metal plates. If the thread just lies on top of the discs, it will not be pulled, and loops form from below. Then the thread passes through the lever of the receiver - this is a metal rod with a hole that moves up and down when the machine is working.
The final stage is filling the needle. The thread is passed through the lower nitrogen ruler at the needle itself and put into the ear. Modern machines often have automatic thread-driver, but older models Podolsk or Zinger They need handmade work. Tail thread length of 10-15 cm is taken back, under the paw.
☑️ Checking the top refueling
After refueling, make a few turns of the flywheel on yourself to make sure the thread moves freely and doesn't get stuck anywhere. If the thread is jerking, check if it fell under the washers of the tension regulator.
Installation of the spools and setting of the bottom thread
The bottom thread is in the shuttle device, which can be horizontal or vertical. In horizontal shuttle vehicles (for example, many models) Brother) the spool is inserted directly into the plastic container. Here it is important to monitor the direction of the filament exit: it usually has to go counterclockwise.
For a vertical shuttle (classic machines), you first need to insert a metal cap into the body, and then install the spool itself. The thread is passed under a special spring plate (friction), which creates tension of the lower thread. Proper tension is checked by a slight swaying of the cap by the thread - it should slowly fall under its own weight.
- 🧵 Horizontal shuttle: Put the spools in, pull the thread into the slot, close the lid.
- ⚙️ Vertical shuttle: insert the spools into the cap, thread under the spring, insert the cap into the machine before clicking.
- 🔄 Filament output: Hold the top thread, make one rotation of the flywheel, so that the bottom thread comes out to the top.
Both threads (upper and lower) after the output should be put under the paw and taken back. They must lie parallel. If the lower thread came out with a large tangle or loop, then the spool is inserted incorrectly or the thread did not fall under the spring of the tension of the cap.
What if the cap is not inserted into the vertical shuttle?
Make sure the protrusion on the cap looks up and hits the groove of the car. Do not use force – you can break the plastic fixture. Try to turn the cap slightly left-right until you feel the right position.
Tension adjustment and fault table
The ideal stitch is obtained when the upper and lower strands are intertwined inside the thickness of the fabric. If the nodule of the connection is visible from above, it means a weak upper tension or a strong lower one. If the loop is below, on the contrary, the upper thread is pulled. Adjustment is made by a screw on the front panel of the machine (for the upper thread) and a screw on the cap (for the lower one, but it is better not to touch it without need).
The numbers on the regulator indicate the degree of compression of the disks. The larger the number, the stronger the thread is compressed. For standard fabrics, a range of 3-5 is usually appropriate. When sewing thin fabrics, tension is increased, for thick ones - reduced. It is important to test the setting on a patch of the same fabric from which the product will be made.
| Line defect | Probable cause | Elimination |
|---|---|---|
| Loops from the bottom of the fabric | Weak tension of the upper thread | Increase the regulator number, check the refueling |
| Tissue tightening | Too much tension on both threads | Reduce tension, check the length of the stitch |
| Top filament break | No thread got between the discs or a dull needle. | Fly the thread, replace the needle |
| Passing stitches | Incorrectly matched needle or thread | Replace the needle with the appropriate tissue type |
When changing the type of fabric or layer thickness, always make a test seam. Tension adjustment It is a dynamic process that requires attention. Don’t be afraid to turn the regulator during the operation if you see that the quality of the seam is deteriorating.
If you sew a very thin fabric (organza, chiffon), put a strip of ordinary paper under it. This will prevent the tissue from being pulled into the shuttle and help the thread pass evenly.
Typical errors in filament setting
One of the most common mistakes is ignoring the needle condition. A bent or blunted needle changes the moment of the loop formation, and the shuttle's thread catcher simply cannot pick up the thread. This causes the car to “sew idle”. Change the needle after each large project or after 8 hours of work.
They often forget to lift their legs when filling. As mentioned, the lowered foot clamps the tension discs. As a result, the thread is worn in a relaxed state, and when lowering the sewing leg, it is squeezed, which leads to breaks. Always keep a rule in mind: We fill it up, we sew it up, we sew it down..
⚠️ Warning: Never pull the fabric with your hands while sewing to speed up the process. This leads to a needle bend and a violation of the synchronization of the movement of the thread, which causes breaks and breakages of the mechanism.
Another mistake is the use of threads of poor quality with a large pile. The pile is stuffed into the ear of needles and tension discs, creating the effect of "constantly changing" tension. The line is normal, it's loopy. Cleaning the machine and using quality threads (for example, Gutermann or Madeira) address this problem.
Features of settings for different types of tissues
Sewing jeans requires not only a thick needle (100-110), but also a change in the length of the stitch. For dense tissues, the step is made larger (3-4 mm) so that the thread does not break when passing through dense layers. The tension of the upper thread often has to be weakened, since the thick thread experiences great friction.
Knitwear and elastic fabrics require the use of a needle with a rounded end (type) Stretch or Jersey). A normal sharp needle cuts the fibers, and knitwear will go in arrows. The thread for such fabrics is better to take synthetic, it is better stretched together with the canvas. The pressure of the foot on the fabric should also be reduced so as not to stretch the material when moving.
- 👖 Jeansa: 100-110 needle, 40LL thread or special. Jeans, step 3-4mm.
- 👗 Silk: needle 60-70, thin thread, step 1.5-2 mm, minimum foot pressure.
- 🧶 Knitwear: Stretch needle, elastane thread, stabilizer use.
Experiment with settings on unnecessary flaps. Each machine has its own characteristics, and what is written in the instructions may require correction for specific working conditions and materials used.
The main secret of a flat line is not only the correct filling, but also the correspondence of the needle, thread and tension settings to the type of fabric being processed.
Why does the thread always break when sewing?
The break of the thread is most often caused by three reasons: the thread did not get between the tension discs (tucked with a lowered leg), the needle is installed not to the point (dull end in the wrong direction) or a low-quality thread with nodules. Also check if there are no burrs on the needle plate.
Do I need to lubricate the thread before filling?
On an industrial scale, filament paraffining is sometimes used to reduce friction. At home, it is enough to use high-quality threads with factory coating. Lubricating the thread with oil or wax by hand can lead to contamination of the fabric and machinery of the machine.
How often should I change the needle?
It is recommended to change the needle after sewing each large product or after 8-10 hours of continuous operation. Dulling of the needle occurs gradually and imperceptibly to the eye, but the quality of the seam suffers. It is cheaper to change needles than to spoil expensive fabric or repair a car.