The question of how to wrap the handlebars often arises among cyclists who want to update the appearance of their vehicle or eliminate discomfort during long trips. Properly installed tape not only improves the aesthetics of the bike, but also provides a secure grip, dampens vibrations from the road and protects your hands from blisters. Poorly done work can lead to material slippage, rapid wear and even loss of control of the bike at a critical moment.
The process of replacing grips or bar tape (road handlebar tape) seems simple only at first glance, but there are many nuances that distinguish amateur work from professional work. In this article we will look in detail at what tools you will need, how to choose the right material and, most importantly, how to wind it so that the result pleases you throughout the season.
Selection of material and preparation of tools
Before starting work, you need to decide on the type of winding, since the comfort and durability of the coating depends on this. Most commonly used for road bikes bar tape made of EVA foam, cork or synthetic materials with gel inserts. Mountain bikes and hybrids are usually equipped with flu made of rubber or silicone, which are stretched or screwed, but there are also models with tape winding. The choice of material directly affects shock absorption and tactile sensations.
For high-quality winding, you will need a minimum set of tools that any home craftsman will have. The main tool will be scissors with sharp blades, allowing you to make even cuts at an angle. You will also need electrical tape or special plastic plugs for the ends of the steering wheel, and in some cases, glue or thread locker to securely fasten the edges.
It is important to understand that cheap synthetic tapes can quickly stretch and slide, while natural cork provides excellent air exchange but wears out faster. Polyurethane coatings are considered the golden mean, combining durability and pleasant texture. If you plan to ride in rainy weather, pay attention to materials with water-repellent impregnation.
- 🚴♂️ Sharp scissors or a stationery knife for precise cutting of materials.
- 🧤 Degreaser (alcohol or special spray) for preparing the steering wheel surface.
- 📏 Measuring tape to control the uniformity of the overlap.
- 🔧 A set of hexagons for dismantling shifters and brake levers (if a complete overhaul is required).
⚠️ Attention: Never start wrapping on a dirty or greasy steering wheel. Even microscopic residue from grease or sweat can cause the belt to slip, causing it to become dislodged while riding.
Removing the old winding and preparing the steering wheel
The first stage of work is to remove the old coating. If there were stickers on the steering wheel bar tapes, they must be carefully unwound, starting from the grips and moving towards the center of the steering wheel. In the process of removing the old tape, it is often discovered that dirt, sand or adhesive residues have accumulated underneath it, which must be carefully removed. Ignoring this step can lead to uneven laying of the new layer and the appearance of unpleasant bumps.
After removing the old material, the surface of the aluminum or carbon steering wheel must be degreased. Isopropyl alcohol or special contact cleaners are ideal for this. Carbon handlebars require special care: do not use aggressive solvents that can damage the resin, and avoid hitting the material, as carbon is fragile to impact.
If you plan to completely remove the shifters and brake levers for a perfect zero winding, make sure you know how to install them. Otherwise, you can wrap the tape over the installed components, which is a faster but less aesthetically pleasing method. In the second case, it is necessary to loosen the clamps and move the shifters to the center of the steering wheel, freeing up space for work.
☑️ Preparing the steering wheel
Winding technique: direction and angle
The most critical point in the entire process is the choice of winding direction and angle. There is a golden rule: on the right side of the handlebar the tape is wound clockwise (when viewed from the end), and on the left - counterclockwise. This is due to the natural position of the cyclist’s hands: when rotating the pedals and working with the steering wheel, the hands make movements that, if the winding direction is correct, will press the edge of the tape and not lift it up.
You should start winding from the edge of the grips, leaving a small reserve of tape for tucking inside the end of the steering wheel. The winding angle should be approximately 30-45 degrees relative to the steering axis. A steeper angle will result in too many layers and a thicker steering wheel, while an angle that is too shallow will create gaps between the coils where moisture and dirt can get trapped.
It is important to maintain consistency tension. The tape should lie snugly, but not be too tight, especially if you are working with elastic materials. The uniform overlap of each turn on the previous one (usually 30-50% of the width of the tape) guarantees uniform coverage and the absence of steps that can rub the palms.
The secret of smooth winding
To ensure that the turns lie perfectly evenly, some craftsmen first make light markings with a marker on the old tape before removing it, copying it onto a new layer, or use a laser level to project the starting line.
Working with brake levers and shifters
The greatest difficulty in winding is the area where the brake levers (pistols) are installed on road bikes. Here it is necessary to carefully outline the base of the handle so that no voids or, conversely, excessive thickening are formed. There are two main methods: cutting the tape at the point where it contacts the handle or using the figure eight technique.
With the cutting method, the tape is brought to the bottom edge of the handle, then a diagonal cut is made, the tape goes around the base, and the second end of the cut overlaps the first. This requires high precision. A simpler but more effective way is to make several overlapping turns around the base of the handle, creating a kind of “well”, which is then covered with the main layer of tape.
Don't forget that brake and shift cables often run under the tape in this area. Make sure winding does not squeeze cable jackets and does not create friction points that can disrupt the precision of gear shifting. After laying the tape in the shifter area, check the brake lever travel - it should be free.
- 🔪 Make cuts in the tape with sharp scissors directly at the base of the handle.
- 🔄 Make sure that the coils lie without folds or air pockets.
- 🛑 Check the tension of the cables after completing the work.
Fixing edges and finishing
The final stage of winding is to securely fix the ends of the tape. At the top of the handlebar (at the stem), the tape is usually fixed with special ring stickers that come with the kit, or with high-quality electrical tape in a color. Some craftsmen prefer to use heat shrink tubing or even thread followed by impregnation with varnish for maximum reliability.
At the ends of the steering wheel (plasters), the remaining tape is carefully tucked inside the tube. To do this, use a plastic plug that comes with the steering wheel. The plug is hammered in with light blows of the palm or a rubber mallet, expanding inside and tightly fixing the tail of the tape. If there is no plug or it does not hold, you can use screw plugs that are screwed into the end.
After completing all the work, it is recommended to walk along the entire length of the winding again, pressing with your palm and heating the material (if it is synthetic) by friction. This will help the tape take its final shape and improve the adhesion of the adhesive layer (if provided by the design of the tape).
| Material type | Winding difficulty | Durability | Depreciation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cork | Average | Low | High |
| Polyurethane | Low | High | Average |
| Silicone/Gel | High (stretches) | Average | Very high |
| Fabric (cotton) | High (requires varnish) | Average | Low |
If you use fabric wrapping, be sure to treat it with a special grip varnish after wrapping. This will add rigidity, protect against moisture and extend the life of the coating.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
One of the most common mistakes beginners make is uneven tension. At the beginning of winding, the tape is pulled strongly, and towards the end - weakly, or vice versa. This leads to the fact that after a few kilometers of travel, one edge of the steering wheel becomes thicker than the other, or waves form. Try to maintain the same force throughout the entire work, periodically checking yourself.
Another problem is the use of low-quality electrical tape for fixation. Cheap PVC electrical tape dries out over time, loses its stickiness and begins to unwind, leaving sticky marks on your hands and clothes. For fixing, it is better to use special vinyl tapes or those that come with expensive windings, as they are designed for vibration loads.
It's also worth mentioning the "too short tail" error. If you cut the tape close to the end of the steering wheel, you will have nothing to tuck inside. Always leave a margin of 3-5 centimeters for secure fixation with the plug. It’s better to cut off the excess later than to redo the whole job.
⚠️ Attention: When working with carbon handlebars, do not use excessive force when installing the end caps. Excessive pressure from the inside can cause cracks in the steering wheel wall, which can be life-threatening.
The quality of winding depends not so much on the material as on the preparation of the surface and the uniform tension of the tape during operation.
How often should the steering wheel tape be changed?
The frequency of replacement depends on the intensity of riding and weather conditions. With daily use in dry weather, a high-quality winding lasts 1-2 seasons. If you ride in the rain or your hands sweat, the material may lose its properties after 3-4 months. Signs of wear: loss of stickiness, abrasion to the base, hardening of the material.
Is it possible to wind new tape over the old one?
Technically this is possible, but it is highly not recommended by professionals. A double layer will increase the diameter of the handlebar, which may be uncomfortable for hands with small palms. In addition, moisture could have accumulated under the old tape, which would start the process of corrosion of the aluminum steering wheel. Always remove the old layer completely.
What is the best way to secure the end of the tape at the stem?
The ideal option is special finishing stickers that come with the tape. They have the correct shape and glue that does not flow in the heat. If they are not available, use high-quality electrical tape (for example, Tesa or 3M) or wrap with thread and apply superglue (for fabric tapes).
Why does the new winding slip?
The main reasons: poor cleaning of the steering wheel before sticking (grease residues), incorrect winding direction (against the movement of the hands), use of stretched tape or lack of reliable fixation of the ends. Also, the tape can slip if it is not selected according to the diameter of the steering wheel (too wide for a narrow steering wheel).
Do I need to use glue when winding?
Most modern tapes have a self-adhesive layer that activates when pressed. Additional adhesive is usually not required and is even harmful, as it will complicate future replacement. Adhesive sprays or double-sided tape are used only in areas with high friction or when using specific materials that do not have an adhesive layer.