Sooner or later, every car owner is faced with the need to locally restore the paintwork. A small scratch from a branch, a chip from gravel on the highway, or more serious damage to the bumper requires precise color matching.
Simply telling the technician at the color center “I have a red car” is not enough, since there are hundreds of shades of red. Even the same factory color can have different codes depending on the model year.
That's why search paint code is the first and most important step before starting work. Without this number, it is impossible to guarantee that the selected enamel will perfectly match the base color of the body of your vehicle.
In this article, we will look in detail at where to look for this information on cars of various brands, how to decipher the symbols found, and what nuances should be taken into account when ordering material from the laboratory.
Why do you need a paint code and where to look for it in principle?
A paint code is a unique combination of letters and numbers assigned by the manufacturer to a specific shade of enamel. Factories use these codes to standardize paint processes so that the roof, door and hood color of thousands of vehicles is identical.
You can find this information on special identification plates or stickers that are located in certain places on the body. Most often they are located in the engine compartment, on the door pillars or in the luggage compartment.
It is important to understand that VIN number car and paint code are different things, although they are often located nearby. The VIN contains information about the configuration and history of the car, and the Color Code is needed specifically for mixing pigments.
⚠️ Attention: Never rely solely on the name of the color in the documents (for example, “Black” or “White”), as one manufacturer may have a dozen shades with the same name, but different chemical formulas.
Sometimes the code plate can be damaged by corrosion or lost, especially on older vehicles. In such cases, the code is often duplicated in the service book or on a sticker in the glove compartment.
Before going to the store, take a photo of the paint code plate with your phone. This will allow you to double-check the house data or send a photo to the master for consultation.
Location of the code on European cars
The European car industry is famous for its standardization, but even here there are differences in the placement of markings. For owners of German, French and Italian cars, the search should start with certain zones.
In cars Volkswagen, Audi and Skoda Most commonly used is a sticker in the trunk under the carpet or on the inside of the gas cap. The code can also be found in the service book on the first pages.
French stamps Renault and Peugeot The nameplate is often hidden under the hood, on the partition of the engine compartment or on the driver's door pillar. The color designation is usually labeled "Color" or "Teinte".
The Italian Fiat and Alfa Romeo The plate is often located under the hood, next to the VIN number. You need to look for the “Color” column or just the alphanumeric code at the bottom of the nameplate.
German manufacturers BMW and Mercedes-Benz information is usually placed under the hood, on the shock absorber glass or on the bulkhead. For older Mercedes models, the code may be stamped directly on the body next to the VIN.
Where to look for the color code on Japanese and Korean cars
Asian manufacturers approach labeling with pedantry, however, the location of the plates may vary depending on the model and year of manufacture. Japanese and Korean brands often use stickers in the driver's door opening.
In cars Toyota and Lexus The paint code (C/TR) is located on the driver's side B-pillar. This is standard on most models, from Corolla to Land Cruiser.
Stamps Honda and Nissan They also place a sticker on the driver's door, but sometimes they duplicate the information under the hood. The code is usually 2-3 characters long and is labeled "Color Code".
Korean Hyundai and Kia The nameplate is often placed under the hood, closer to the side member or on the mudguard. It's also worth checking the inside of the gas filler door, although this is a rarer spot for Asians.
☑️ Check before buying paint
It is worth noting that on some models Mazda and Subaru The code may be indicated as a sticker in the glove compartment or on the end of the driver's door. Always check several places if the first one is empty.
Features of American-made car markings
The American auto industry has its own traditions, and searching for paint codes on Ford, Chevrolet or Dodge could be a little quest. Most often, information is duplicated on several stickers.
The main place to look is the VIN sticker on the driver's door. At the bottom of this sticker there is usually a field “EXT PNT” (Exterior Paint), where the required code is indicated.
Some models, for example Jeep or old Chrysler, the code can be stamped on a plate in the engine compartment, often on the front panel or on the mudguard.
In this case, two values will be specified, separated by a dash or space.
⚠️ Attention: On older American cars, the paint may have been repainted by previous owners. Always compare the code to the actual color in hidden areas, such as inside a doorway.
How to correctly decipher the found symbols
Once you have found the sign, it is important to interpret what is written correctly. Not all numbers and letters on the nameplate refer to the body color. There may be codes for interior, fabric type or equipment.
Look for the following designations: Color, Paint, C/TR (Color/Trim), Farbe (for German cars). The paint code is usually short - from 2 to 5 characters.
Often the interior code (Trim code) is indicated next to the color code. Don't mix them up, otherwise you will get the paint for the seats and not the body. The paint code usually comes first or has a separate column.
In some cases, especially for premium brands, the code may consist of several parts. For example, the main color and code of the varnish or special effect (metallic, pearl).
What to do if there are several codes?
If the plate shows several paint codes (for example, separated by commas), this means that the car is two-tone. The first code is the main body color, the second is the color of the roof or decorative elements. For local repairs, you need one that matches the damaged part.
To accurately decipher complex codes, it is best to use online manufacturer catalogs or contact an official dealer, citing the VIN number.
Table of code locations for popular brands
For ease of navigation, we have compiled a summary table that will help you navigate your search. However, remember that depending on the year of manufacture of the model, the location of the plates may vary.
| Car make | Main location | Extra bed | Designation on the nameplate |
|---|---|---|---|
| Toyota / Lexus | Driver's door pillar | Under the hood (rarely) | C/TR |
| Volkswagen / Audi | Trunk (under carpet) | Service book | Color / L |
| BMW | Under the hood (glass) | Door pillar | Paint No. |
| Ford | Driver's door pillar | Under the hood | EXT PNT |
| Hyundai / Kia | Under the hood (mudguard) | Door pillar | Color Code |
This table covers most popular models, but is not an absolute truth for all modifications. Always conduct a visual inspection of all possible locations.
The nuances of selecting paint by code and fading
Finding the code is only half the battle. The second half is understanding that the paint on your car may have changed its color over the years of use.
Ultraviolet radiation, reagents on the roads and temperature changes lead to pigment burnout. Red, blue and black colors are the most susceptible to this. A new repair, made strictly according to the code, may differ from a burnt-out body.
In such cases, colorists use a computer selection method taking into account the degree of fading or “stretch” the color so that the transition is less noticeable.
Even knowing the exact paint code, older cars (over 5-7 years old) may require computer tinting taking into account fading, since the factory shade no longer matches the real color of the car.
Therefore, if you order paint to repair a large element (hood, door), it is better to take the material with a small supply or contact a professional studio.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to select paint without a code, just by VIN number?
Yes, many official dealers and large color centers can determine the paint code by VIN number by accessing factory databases. However, this method is not always accurate if the car has been repainted.
How much does it cost to select paint by code?
The cost depends on the type of enamel (acrylic, metallic, mother-of-pearl) and volume. Usually the price is indicated per 100 grams of the finished mixture. The code selection process itself is often free if you order the material.
Why is the paint code different from the color of the car?
This may be caused by the body fading under the sun, varnish oxidation, or the fact that the car was previously repainted with non-original paint. In such cases, complex tinting is required.
Where can I find the paint code if all the decals are destroyed by rust?
The only option left is computer selection. The master colorist takes a sample of paint (usually from a door opening or gas tank flap) and uses a spectrum to recreate the formula.
Can I use a paint code to buy a spray can in a store?
Yes, many auto enamel stores sell ready-made aerosol cans, made strictly according to the factory color code. This is a good option for painting small chips.