Restoring small areas of the body or painting discs with your own hands often seems an impossible task for a beginner. Many are afraid to take up work because of the risk of getting a shaking, stain or uneven color, which will eventually lead to even greater costs for rework. But knowing physicochemical properties aerosol materials and observing strict technology, you can achieve a result indistinguishable from the factory coating.
The key advantage of using aerosol cylinders is the possibility of local repair without complex equipment. You don’t need a compressor, spray gun, or a separate room to mix the components. Prepared mixture The balloon already has perfect viscosity, but requires the correct temperature regime and spraying technique. Exactly. surface temperature of the part and the surrounding air This is the critical factor that is most often ignored, resulting in defects.
In this article, we will discuss the entire process from the selection of materials to the final polishing. You will learn how to prepare the surface so that the paint lasts for years and what mistakes lead to marriage. We will consider the nuances of working with different types of enamels, including metallic and mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of mother of child of child.
Selection of materials and preparation of the workplace
The first step to success is to choose the right chemistry. Do not save on cans, as cheap analogues often contain little solid residue and a lot of solvent. Quality spray-bag should have a glass ball, which, when shaken, emits a ringing sound, indicating a good mixing of components.
You will need not only the paint itself, but also a whole set of related materials. For degreasing, it is perfect. antisiliconeIt doesn't leave a greasy film. Sound spray is essential for adhesion, especially if you are working with bare metal or plastic. The lacquer layer will protect the base from burnout and mechanical damage.
- 🎨 Aerosol enamel (base layer) selected by the paint code.
- 🛡️ Acrylic soil-spray for surface leveling.
- 🌫️ A clear varnish (glossy or matte) for the finish.
- 🧴 Degrease and napkins without pile.
The organization of space plays no less a role than the choice of materials. Dust is the painter's main enemy. Even microscopic particles that have settled on fresh paint will spoil the appearance. Therefore, the room must be carefully cleaned, the floor moistened with water to nail the dust, and ensure good ventilation, but without drafts that can inflate the dust.
⚠️ Warning: Never do paint work in direct sunlight or near open fire sources. Solvent vapors are heavier than air and can accumulate at the floor, creating an explosive mixture.
Technology for surface preparation
The quality of the final coverage depends on preparation by 80%. If you apply paint on a greasy, rusty or glossy surface, it will inevitably peel off or rise after a short time. First, mechanical cleaning of the damaged area is performed. Rust is removed to pure metal using abrasive materials or rust converters.
After machining, the matting stage follows. A glossy layer of old paint must be made matte so that the new soil catches on the surface. They use abrasives for this. P800-P1000. The movements should be circular or cross-to-cross to avoid deep scratches. The transition boundaries between the old paint and the cleaned area should be made smooth, using a softer abrasive. P1500-P2000.
The final stage of preparation is degreasing. Even if you work in gloves, there may be invisible traces of fat or silicone on the surface. Wipe the part with a napkin moistened with a degreaser, and immediately wipe with dry clean rags. Don’t rub too hard to electrify the plastic if you’re working with a bumper.
☑️ Surface preparation control
Soil and base layer application process
The grounding is the foundation of your future coverage. Aerosol soil is applied in 2-3 thin layers with interlayer drying for 10-15 minutes. The main task is not to fill the surface, but to create a uniform rough base. If the soil lay with the leaks, they must be dried and carefully sanded, otherwise the defect will manifest itself through the paint.
Before you start painting, the canister must be carefully shaken. The instruction requires intense shaking for 2-3 minutes so that the glass ball breaks all the pigment clots. The temperature of the balloon should be room temperature, about 20°C. If the balloon is cold, the gas pressure will not be sufficient for high-quality spraying of the torch.
The technique of applying paint is radically different from the work of the brush. Keep the balloon strictly perpendicular to the surface at a distance of 20-25 cm. The movement begins before the valve is pressed and ends after the button is released, when the torch has already passed the edge of the part. This avoids thickening at the beginning and end of the passage.
- 🖌️ The first layer is applied very thinly, "spray", to create adhesion.
- 💧 The second and third layers are made more saturated, but without overflow.
- ⏱️ Observe interlayer drying as specified by the manufacturer (usually 10-20 minutes).
- 🌡️ Avoid working in high humidity (>80%).
Why can't you paint with a thick layer?
The thick layer of paint does not have time to dry evenly. The upper part is polymerized to form a crust, and the lower part remains liquid. The solvent begins to look for an outlet by drilling the top layer, which leads to a defect in "boiling" or crater-shaped bubbles. In addition, the thick layer is guaranteed to flow under the influence of gravity.
Pay special attention to drying between layers. If you apply the next layer to the previously undried one, the solvent will be locked inside. This will lead to clouding of the varnish in the future or detachment of the paint. Touch your finger in an inconspicuous place (for example, on the inner end) - there should be no stickiness.
Nuances of work with metallic and pearl
Staining with metallized enamel requires advanced qualification. The composition of such paints contains aluminum particles that must lie parallel to the surface for proper light reflection. If you break the technology, you can get the effect of "multi-tone" or "apple" when at different angles of view, the detail changes shade.
For metallic critically important spray pressure and viscosity. In aerosol cylinders, these parameters have already been selected, so your task is not to change the distance to the surface during operation. The sharp approach of the balloon will lead to the fact that aluminum grains will settle chaoticly, creating a dark spot. Distance It must be iron-constant.
| Parameter | Solid colors (solid) | Metallic/Pearl | lacque |
|---|---|---|---|
| Number of layers | 2-3 layers | 3-4 layers + pollination | 2-3 layers |
| Interlayer drying | 10-15 minutes | 5-10 minutes | 15-20 minutes |
| Distance | 20-25 cm | 25-30 cm | 20-25 cm |
| Finish | No varnish. | Be sure to varnish | Glossy finish |
After the main layers have been applied, metallic materials often require a so-called “fog layer” or pollination. It is applied from a greater distance (30-35 cm) and with a faster passage. This allows the aluminum flakes to be stacked in the correct order and level the shade. Without this stage, the color may appear too dark or cloudy.
When working with metallic always make control colors on a metal plate or an old part. The color in the balloon, spray and after drying can vary, and it is better to see this in advance.
Lacquering and creating a protective layer
Lacquering is the final chord that gives depth to the color and protects the base from ultraviolet light and reagents. You can apply varnish only after the base enamel is completely dried "on the stick", but not later than after 24 hours (otherwise you will need re-matting). For aerosols, it is optimal to wait 30-40 minutes after the last layer of paint.
Lacquer is applied in 2-3 layers. The first layer is thin, binding. The second layer is the main, wet, but without the formation of thick undertone. If you plan to polish the surface, the second layer can be made slightly thicker to have a supply of material to take risks. The third layer is applied only if the second bed is uneven.
⚠️ Note: When applying the varnish, watch for glare. As soon as the surface has become evenly glossy and "fat", immediately stop spraying on this area. The excess varnish will necessarily flow when drying.
It is important not to overdo it with the amount of varnish. Aerosol cylinders often have high pressure, and beginners tend to pour the part. It is better to apply three thin layers than one thick one, which will go bubbles. The uniformity of the gloss effect depends on the stability of the hand and the speed of movement.
Drying, polishing and elimination of defects
Full polymerization of the paint coating takes 24 hours to several weeks, depending on the temperature and type of chemistry. However, primary drying can be accelerated. Use of the infrared Or just a warm fan (not hot air directly!) helps the solvent evaporate faster. The optimum temperature for drying is +20...+25°C.
After complete drying (after a day), the surface often has defects in the form of "orange peel" or dust. This is normal for garage conditions. Eliminates this with abrasive grinding P2000-P2500 with water, and then polished with a machine with pastes of different abrasiveness. First, a rough paste is used to relieve risks, then the finish for shine.
- 🚿 Washing with soap and water before polishing is mandatory.
- 🧽 Use only clean polishing circles.
- 🛑 Do not press hard with the machine, so as not to wipe the varnish to paint.
- 🌡️ Only polish the completely cooled part.
The quality of polishing directly depends on the quality of pre-surfacing. If you have badly polished the “orange peel” with P2000 sandpaper, polishing will not remove the defect, but only make it less noticeable.
If serious defects occur during the work, such as deep stains, do not try to polish them immediately. The stain should be carefully cut with the blade level with the surface, then grind the transition place and apply locally varnish. It takes patience, but saves the detail from complete repainting.
How to remove the stain on the varnish if it is already dry?
Take a new razor blade and gently, without pressing, cut the top of the leak until it equals the general level. Then grind the area with P2000 sandpaper, avoiding the surrounding area. After that, polish the paste. If the undertrenchment is very large, you may have to remove the varnish completely on this element.
Can I paint spray in the winter in an unheated garage?
It's not recommended. At a temperature below +15 ° C, the paint spreads poorly, forming a shaking, and the humidity leads to a matte (white coating) of the varnish. In addition, condensation on a cold part will kill adhesion. The minimum that you need is a heat gun for heating the room and the part itself to +20 ° C before the start of work.
How much dried paint from the spray before full operation?
Although the dried paint is “on the stick” in 30-60 minutes, full polymerization (strength set) takes about 7-14 days. In the first week, it is better not to wash the car, as well as avoiding aggressive chemicals and mechanical influences. During this period, the coating is still soft and vulnerable.