The appearance of chipped on the body is an inevitable reality for any car owner, no matter how carefully you drive. Gravel flying from under the wheels ahead of the trucks, small pebbles on the track and even hail can leave traces on the paintwork. Ignoring these seemingly minor damages can lead to serious financial losses in the future, as the result of the damage is not a significant risk. metal-corrosion It develops rapidly, especially in humid climates and the use of road reagents.
Modern repair methods allow you to effectively deal with this problem, without requiring an expensive service for a complete repainting of the part. Depending on the depth of the damage and the area of the lesion, you can choose the method. polishingUse of a restoration pencil or a more complex local painting procedure. The main thing is not to delay the adoption of measures, because rust, which appeared under a layer of paint, is able to "eat" metal in one winter season.
In this article, we will discuss in detail all the stages of recovery of the LCP, the necessary tools and materials. You will learn how to properly prepare the surface, what soil to choose and how to make the transition of paint invisible to a prying eye. It's important to understandThe quality of the result depends on the thoroughness of preparation and adherence to the technology at each stage.
Evaluation of damages and choice of repair method
Before you start active actions, it is necessary to conduct a thorough diagnosis of the condition of the body. Not all chips are the same: some only touch the top layer of lacquer, others get to the base, and others expose the metal, requiring immediate intervention. If the damage is superficial and the nail does not cling to the edges of the chip, you may be able to do polishing Or using a masking pencil.
In the case when you see the soil or metal, a simple polishing will not help - you will need to apply new layers of materials. Deep chips, the diameter of which exceeds 3-5 mm, often require a professional approach or very careful work with a brush and polymer to smooth the boundaries. Local paint. This is used when the damage is multiple or is in a prominent place where cosmetic repairs will be thrown into.
Particular attention should be paid to risk areas: the front edge of the hood, the roof over the windshield, rapids and wheel arches. This is where the paint layer thins the fastest. If you notice the blistering of paint around the chip, this is a sure sign that corrosion It is already running under the LCP layer, and the cleanup will require more than just handling the defect itself.
Required materials and tools
The quality of repair depends on the materials used. Trying to save on soil or degreasing can lead to the fact that after a couple of months the paint will begin to peel off or change color. You will need a basic set that can be purchased from any specialized car store or ordered online.
- 🧴 Anti-greater (anti-silicone) is critical for removing silicone contaminants and oils.
- 🎨 Enamel (paint) – selected exactly in the color of your car by cou.
- 🛡️ Soil enamel or acid soil - to create adhesion and protect the metal.
- 📄 Abrasive materials are sandpaper of various grains (P800, P1500, P2000).
- ✨ Polishing paste - for finishing and removing transitions.
Use the exact color selection VIN code a vehicle that is usually located on the body rack or in the underhood space. Computer selection allows you to create a mixture as close as possible to the factory hue, given the degree of paint burnout on your particular car. Paint code. It is often listed on a sign next to the VIN number.
Always take paint with a small supply. Even with accurate computer selection, the shade can vary minimally, and for retouching it is better to have material from one batch.
Preparation of surface for recovery
The preparatory stage is the most important in the whole process. The mistakes made here cannot be corrected simply by applying more paint. The first thing you need to do is wash the car thoroughly, paying special attention to the repair area to remove all dust, dirt and bitumen stains.
After washing and drying, it is necessary to mechanically clean the edges of the chip. Use a thin blade or needle to gently remove the flaked paint particles and rust if it has already appeared. Cleanup. It should be carried out carefully so as not to damage the surrounding whole paint layer.
⚠️ Note: Do not use a rust converter under the paint if you plan to do quality repairs. The chemical reaction can continue under the paint layer, causing it to swell. It is better to mechanically remove the oxides to pure metal.
The final step of preparation is degreasing. Wipe the repair site and the area around it with a napkin dipped in antisilicone. Allow the surface to dry for a few minutes. Do not touch the fat-free surface with your hands, as skin fat can worsen the adhesion of materials.
☑️ Checklist of preparations
Technology of applying soil and paint
The recovery process begins with the application of soil. If the chip is deep and up to metal, you can not miss this stage. The soil provides adhesion of the paint to the metal and prevents corrosion. For small points, it is convenient to use the soil in the form of a pencil or apply it with a thin brush.
Apply the materials in layers, allowing each layer to dry completely. The drying time is indicated on the manufacturer’s packaging and can range from 15 minutes to several hours depending on the air temperature. Thin layers They dry faster and give less stains than one thick one.
| Materials | Application tool | Drying time (20°C) | Number of layers |
|---|---|---|---|
| Acid soil | Brush/Applicator | 15-30 minutes | 1 |
| Basic enamel | Brush/Syringe | 10-20 minutes | 2-3 |
| Acrylic lacquer | Brush/Airgraph | 24 hours (full) | 1-2 |
| polyryl | Microfiber/Machine | Right away. | 1 |
When applying paint, try to get exactly within the boundaries of the chip. If a brush is used, keep it perpendicular to the surface. For very small points, the "kick" method can be used, touching the surface only with the tip of the tool. It's important. Do not transfuse material to avoid the formation of craters and floods.
The Secret to Perfect Deposition
Use a magnifying glass or magnifying glass when working with small chips. This will allow you to control the amount of paint on the brush and the accuracy of the hit, avoiding capturing the intact area.
Finishing and polishing
After the paint and varnish are completely dried (it is better to wait a day), the surface may look rough or have irregularities. At this stage, polishing comes into play. It allows you to level the surface and make the repair site invisible.
Start by treating abrasive paper with either P2000 or P2500 pre-soaked in water. Carefully, without heavy pressure, handle the repair area and a small transition around it. Your goal is to cut the micro-influences of paint and equalize the level of the new material with the main varnish.
- 🌀 Use abrasive paste (compound) to remove matteness after sandpaper.
- 💎 Apply finishing polyrene to give gloss and depth of color.
- 🧽 Work with a low-revving polishing machine or manually with a microfiber.
The result of proper polishing should be a uniform shine throughout the detail. If you notice that the repair site is still visible due to the difference in the structure of the varnish, the polishing procedure can be repeated, but with greater care. Deep polishing It takes experience not to rub the varnish to paint.
The quality of polishing determines 50% of the success of visual restoration. Without proper abrasive processing, the boundary between old and new paint will be noticeable.
Alternative methods: liquid skin and spray balloons
It is not always possible or desirable to tinker with brushes and soils. For large areas, for example, when the hood is all in the "sandjet" from the track, it can be effective method of local painting using aerosol cans through the stencil. This method requires more complex preparation and protection of surrounding areas, but gives good results in large areas.
There are also special compositions of the type "liquid leather" or polymer aggregates. They are not paint in the full sense of the word, but rather mask the defect by filling the volume. Such tools are good for a temporary solution or for hiding chips on plastic elements, but on a metal body they do not provide proper care. corrosion-proofing.
⚠️ Attention: Polymer fillers and wax pencils are washed off after a few washes. Use them only as a temporary measure before a full repair to stop the rust.
For owners of dark colored cars (black, dark blue) any retouching methods are more noticeable than for light cars. On the black body, all scratches and transitions are visible, so maximum accuracy and, possibly, use are required here. airgraph To create a soft transition (stirring).
Prevention of the appearance of new scalps
After a successful repair, you want to keep the result as long as possible. It is impossible to completely insure the car from chipping, but you can minimize the risks. The most effective way is to paste the most vulnerable places (hood, bumper, mirrors, thresholds) antigravel (polyurethane).
The film takes the stones on itself, remaining transparent and invisible. High-quality polyurethane is able to "tighten" small scratches from the wash under the influence of heat. It is also worth keeping a distance when driving behind trucks and avoiding driving along sections of the road with rubble at high speed.
Regularly treating the body with waxes or ceramic compounds also helps. While they won’t protect against the impact of a large rock, they make the surface more slippery, and small particles can simply slip away without leaving a trace. Ceramic coating adds hardness to the lacquer, increasing its resistance to the abrasive effects of sand.
The magnet myth
There is a myth that magnets on thresholds or bumpers collect metal shavings and protect against chipping. In practice, this does not work to protect against flying stones, but only creates points of corrosion when the magnet itself is damaged.
Can I paint the chip with a regular spray paint?
Use of ordinary nitro-enamel or paint for household needs is strictly not recommended. Car paints have chemical resistance, elasticity and resistance to ultraviolet, which are not in household analogues. Ordinary paint will quickly tear down, fade or react with the factory varnish, forming bloating.
How much paint does it dry when repairing chips?
The drying time depends on the temperature and humidity.On the stick (stops sticking) car enamel dries for 15-30 minutes. However, complete curing and strength gain occurs within 24 hours. It is recommended to polish the surface no earlier than a day after the last layer is applied.
Do I need to remove the part to repair the chips?
In 90% of cases, the removal of the detail is not required. Local repairs are carried out directly on the car. Removing the element makes sense only if the damage is in a hard-to-reach place (for example, the inside of the arch) or if you need a complex painting with the transition to neighboring parts.
What to do if the color of the paint does not match?
If after drying you see a clear difference in shade, then the wrong tonality is selected or the paint is applied too thick / thin layer. In some cases, polishing helps, which can slightly change the visual perception of color. If the difference is critical, you will need a bulkhead paint in the color studio, taking into account the burnout of your body.