How to Read a JU Auction Sheet: A Complete Guide to Deciphering Codes

Buying a car from Japanese auctions is always a lottery if you don’t know how to solve the codes left by experts. Thousands of cars go under the hammer every day, and the only objective source of truth about the condition of the “iron horse” is auction sheet. It is this document that saves you from buying a “cue ball” or a car after a natural disaster.

The document contains detailed information about the configuration, mileage, ownership history and, most importantly, about technical and visual defects. Beginners often get lost in the stream of alphanumeric designations, not understanding the difference between a scratch on the bumper and through corrosion of the threshold.

In this article we will analyze the structure of the document, learn to distinguish JU (Japan Used) from other systems and understand why a 4.5 rating can hide unpleasant surprises. Proper transcription is the first step to a successful transaction and saving your budget.

Auction list structure and overall assessment

A Japanese auction sheet is a standardized form that is completed by independent experts before a lot is offered. Always located at the top of the document overall rating (Grade), expressed by a number and sometimes a letter. This is the first thing a buyer looks at.

The score is the sum of the points for exterior (external condition) and interior (condition of the interior), but the final figure may be reduced for technical faults. For example, a car with an ideal body may receive a low grade due to problems with the engine.

It is important to understand that a rating of 3.5 or 4.0 is not a defect, but a working car with scuffs. And here are the cars with an assessment R or RA require special attention because they have been in serious accidents or were restored after flooding.

Rating scale: S to RA

The grading system in Japan is the same for most major auction houses, such as TAA, USS or JU. Understanding the differences between adjacent values ​​helps to weed out illiquid assets.

• 🚗 S / 6 — New car or close to new condition, minimal mileage, no defects.
• ✨ 5 — Ideal condition, possible traces of washing, mileage up to 30,000 km, year of manufacture not older than 2 years.
• ✅ 4.5 — Excellent condition, may have minor scratches, mileage up to 60,000 km.
• 👍 4 - Good condition, with some noticeable scratches or dents that require polishing or minor repairs.
• 🔧 3.5 — Requires investment: scratches, dents, dirty interior, may need dry cleaning.
• ⚠️ 3 — There are many defects, repair work is needed, parts can be replaced, high mileage.
• 💥 R / RA — Restored after serious damage, replacement of body parts or flooding.

Evaluation interior (salon) often appears as a separate number. A dirty interior with a rating of 3 with an overall grade of 4.5 indicates a careless attitude of the owner, but this can easily be corrected by dry cleaning. It is much worse if the low rating is caused by a burnt seat or a tobacco smell that is almost impossible to remove.

Body Map: Reading the Damage Pattern

The central part of the sheet is occupied by a schematic image of a car. All defects are marked in letters and numbers on this map. The letter indicates the type of damage, and the number indicates its severity from 1 to 3 (or W for waves).

The most common designations are related to paintwork. Code XX or W (Wave) indicates the presence of putty or waves on the surface, which indicates a painted part. Code U (Uki) refers to blistering of the paint, often a sign of hidden corrosion.

⚠️ Attention: If there are many marks concentrated on the map in one area (for example, XX, W, U), this is a sure sign of a serious accident in the car's history, even if it looks normal on the outside.

Glasses and optics use their own designations. A crack in the windshield is marked as G (Glass) with a number indicating the size. The absence of a headlight or the presence of non-original optics is also necessarily noted on the diagram.

Table of main defects

To avoid getting confused by abbreviations, use a reference table. Here are the most common codes that you will find in 90% of auction sheets.

Code	Decoding	Description of the defect	Criticality
A	Scratch	Scratch on the surface	Low
W / XX	Repair/Wave	Repair area, putty, wave	Medium/High
U	Uki	Blistering of paint (corrosion under the layer)	High
C	Corrosion	Open rust	High
D	Dent	Dent without damage to paint	Low
E	Replace	Replacing an element (door, wing)	Average

The code is worth mentioning separately E. If there is a mark on the map E on the door, this means that the door has been replaced. If the replacement is made with an original spare part, this is not a problem. If a contract part from another car is installed, this can lead to problems with the geometry of the body.

What is the code Z and XX at one point?

If you see a combination of XX and Z at one point, this means that the part is not just painted, but has significant irregularities that cannot be corrected by polishing. Often such places require re-welding or replacing the panel.

Technical notes and (Bikou)

At the bottom of the sheet is a field for text comments, often labeled as Bikou (Remarks). Here the expert writes something that cannot be shown on the diagram. This is the most important section for identifying hidden problems.

This is where you can find information about oil changes, tire condition, air conditioning operation and the availability of a service book. Phrase AC cold means the air conditioner is blowing cold, and AC gas - that refueling is required.

Pay special attention to the comments about the engine and transmission. If you see a mark engine noise (engine noise) or transmission slip (kicks the box), it is better to refuse such a lot, even if the body is ideal. Repairing units will cost more than saving on purchase.

Specific designations and nuances

Japanese auctions are full of nuances. For example, the letter S may mean not only an assessment, but also the presence sunroof (hatch) in the description of the configuration. And the code T in the transmission section often indicates the presence CVT (variator).

You should also pay attention to the marks indicating the presence of flavorings (AR) or smoking in the cabin (CS - Cigarette Smoke). For people with allergies or intolerance to odors, the machine is marked CS will become torture, since it is extremely difficult to remove the smell of tobacco from Japanese cars due to the dense upholstery materials.

In the section options Security system codes may be indicated. For example, the presence of all-round cameras or an automatic parking system. The absence of the usual “cruises” or “climate” in the basic trim levels is the norm for the Japanese domestic market.

⚠️ Attention: Don't confuse the code W (wave/putty) with code W in the wheel section, which may mean Winter tires (winter tires). The context always depends on the location of the code on the sheet.

Common mistakes when decoding

The main mistake newbies make is ignoring the auction date. A car that sits in an impound lot for six months after an auction may become covered in rust, even if the rating on the sheet was 4.5. Always check that the information is up to date.

The second mistake is blind faith in the assessment. The auction expert is also human, and he may not notice a hidden defect or evaluate the scratch more gently than you would. A rating of 4.0 is not a guarantee that there will be no problems.

The third mistake is underestimating the cost of delivery and customs clearance when calculating the budget. If you buy a car for $5,000 with a 3.5 rating, you risk spending another $3,000 on getting it in order and shipping, which makes the deal unprofitable.

Why might mileage be underestimated?

In Japan, it is not uncommon for the mileage to be twisted before sale. If you see a fresh replacement dashboard (E code on the panel) or a discrepancy between the condition of the interior (worn steering wheel) and the stated mileage, most likely the numbers on the odometer are incorrect.

What does an R1 or RA rating mean?

Evaluation R (Repair) is assigned to cars that have significant damage in history. R1 usually means that the car has been restored with high quality and is visually almost indistinguishable from the whole. R2 or RA (Repair A) indicates serious violations of the body geometry, poor quality of restoration or the presence of non-original elements. The purchase of such cars is justified only with in-depth knowledge of the market and cheap access to body repairs.

Can I trust the auction sheet 100%?

An auction sheet is the opinion of a specific expert at a specific point in time. It is not a legal document with a guarantee. The expert does not disassemble the car, does not look inside the engine and does not check compression. It evaluates only external and inspectable parameters. Therefore, there is always a risk of hidden defects.

What should I do if the codes on the sheet do not match the photo?

A discrepancy between the photo and description is a warning sign. Sometimes this is an error when filling out, but more often it is an attempt to hide a real defect. If the photo shows a dent and the card shows code A (scratch), it is better to skip this lot. The risk of running into a “horse” (a car with serious hidden problems) is too great.

How to understand that the car was in the water?

Cars after flooding (Flood damaged) often receive an assessment R or