Finding the exact paint code is a task that every car owner faces when planning a local body repair or a complete repaint. Often in a professional environment and among car enthusiasts you can hear the term “frit” or “frit”, which is a distorted pronunciation of the abbreviation FRT (Front) or specific designation FRIT, used by some manufacturers to mark color options. Understanding where exactly to look for this data can save you a lot of time and money by eliminating the risk of buying the wrong enamel.
In most cases, information about body color is printed on special aluminum or paper tags, which are located in places strictly defined by the manufacturer. Localization of these signs depends on the make, model and year of the vehicle, but there are universal zones where the likelihood of finding the data you are looking for is highest. It is important to understand that paint code may differ from the general color code indicated in catalogs, so locating the exact nameplate is critical.
You should not rely solely on a visual comparison of color, since paint fades under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, and even the original body may differ in shade from new parts. Using the correct code, found through frit decoding or factory markings, allows colorists to create a blend that matches the tone perfectly. In this article we will analyze in detail all the possible locations of such signs and learn how to correctly read the information contained on them.
What is a “frit” and why do you need a paint code?
The term “frit” in the context of automotive painting most often refers to either the factory tag itself with technical data, or a specific color code, which in the documentation of some brands (especially Asian and American) may be marked as FRIT or have a similar sound. This is not just a set of letters and numbers, but the key to accurately recreating the factory shade. Chemical composition Automotive enamels are complex, and visual selection alone without knowledge of the underlying code often leads to metamerism - an effect where the color looks the same only in certain lighting.
Factory markings contain information not only about the base color, but also about the type of coating (metallic, mother-of-pearl, matte), as well as the application technology. For auto body repair specialists, having this information is prerequisite to start work. Without an exact code, the selection process turns into a lottery, where the result depends solely on the skill of the colorist, but even he cannot guarantee a 100% match without the manufacturer’s original data.
⚠️ Attention: Never rely on a color name on a document (such as "Black Pearl" or "Satin White"), as the same name may be used for dozens of different shades in different years of the same model.
In addition, knowledge of the exact code is necessary when purchasing repair aerosols or ready-made cans of paint in specialized stores. Automotive enamels manufacturers such as Mobihel, PPG, Axalta, use a single coding system tied to factory specifications. If you make a mistake in one number, the shade may turn green, blue or gray, which will become noticeable immediately after the material dries.
Main locations of nameplates
The first place to look when looking for information about body color is under the hood. It is here, on visible metal surfaces, that the main VIN plate or a separate sticker with paint codes. For most left-hand drive vehicles, this area is located at the top of the engine compartment, closer to the windshield, or on the driver's side front frame member.
The second most popular place is doorways. If you do not find any information under the hood, open the driver's door and carefully inspect the B-pillar. A sticker with information about tires, pressure and, what is important for us, is often located here. paint code. For some manufacturers, for example the VAG group or BMW, this information may be duplicated in the trunk, under the carpet or on the inside of the gas filler flap.
The third search area is the vehicle documentation. The service book, warranty card or sales contract often contains an exact statement of all factory codes, including color. However, it is worth considering that the code may have been entered into the documents with an error during initial registration, therefore physical check on the body always takes priority over paper media.
- 🚗 Engine compartment: upper cross member, side members, shock absorber glass.
- 🚪 Doorways: central pillar (driver's door), door end, lower part of the sill.
- 🎒 Trunk and interior: under the spare tire, in the jack well, under the passenger seat mat.
- ⛽ Additional zones: gas tank flap, wheel arches (less common, but found on American cars).
It is worth noting that for used cars these plates could have been lost as a result of careless washing, polishing or body repair. In such cases, the search becomes more complicated, and you have to resort to alternative identification methods, which we will discuss below. The main thing is to take your time and carefully inspect each potential surface in good lighting.
☑️ Nameplate search algorithm
Specifics of search by car brands
Each automaker has its own established standards for placing marking plates. Knowing these features can significantly reduce search time. For example, a German concern Volkswagen Group (including Audi, Skoda, Seat) traditionally places a sticker with codes in the service book and duplicates it on the body in the area of the trunk lock or under the luggage compartment mat. The color code there is usually indicated as LA, LY or LC followed by numbers.
Japanese cars such as Toyota, Honda, Nissan, most often have a nameplate on the B-pillar on the driver's side. Toyota paint codes often begin with a prefix C/TR (Color/Trim), where the first part is the desired color. At Honda, the information can be duplicated under the hood on a “TV” (front cross member) or on the rack. It is important to pay attention to the fact that the Japanese code often consists of 3 characters, for example, 040 (Super White) or B92P (Milano Red).
American brands (Ford, Chevrolet, GM) often use aluminum plates secured with bolts or rivets in the engine compartment. For Ford, the paint code may be called EXT PNT (Exterior Paint) and consist of two characters. For General Motors (Chevrolet, Cadillac), the code is often located on a plate Service Parts Identification in the trunk or under the seat, and it can be quite long, consisting of 4 characters (for example, WA8555).
| Car make | Typical location | Designation in the code | Example code |
|---|---|---|---|
| Volkswagen, Audi | Service book, trunk (under the carpet) | LA, LY, LB | LY7C, LA7W |
| Toyota, Lexus | Driver's door pillar, under the hood | C/TR | 040, 1G3 |
| Ford, Lincoln | Door pillar, engine compartment plate | EXT PNT | PM, J7 |
| BMW | Door pillar, engine compartment | PNT | A96, 475 |
| Hyundai, Kia | Door pillar, door arch | S/T or just numbers | WM, YS |
European premium brands such as Mercedes-Benz, often hide the sign in hard-to-reach places, such as in the radiator opening or on the inside of the fender, to maintain the aesthetics of the engine compartment. Mercedes color codes are usually three digits (e.g. 775 for Night Black). If you are the owner of a rare or exclusive car, it is recommended to study the forums of a specific model in advance, since the location may change even within the same model range.
What to do if the sign is cut off or is not readable?
If the nameplate is lost (they are often cut off during theft or they rot), you can try to find the code in the dealer database using the VIN number. There is also a method of computer spectrophotometric analysis, when a specialist scans a surviving area of the body (for example, under a molding or in a door opening) and recreates the paint formula. However, this method is less accurate for older, faded vehicles.
How to correctly decrypt data from a tag
After you have found the treasured tablet, you may be presented with a set of incomprehensible symbols, numbers and abbreviations. It is important to be able to distinguish the paint code from other technical data, such as the salon code, production date or VIN number. Usually the paint code is highlighted separately or has a specific prefix. Look for inscriptions Paint, Color, C/TR, PNT or Farbnummer.
Often several codes may be indicated on one tag. This is due to the fact that the car can be painted in two colors (for example, the main color and the color of the roof or sills). In this case, look for the main code that covers most of the body. If you only plan to paint the bumper, and it's black non-paintable plastic, you may not need a body paint code, but you will need one for the side mirrors or moldings.
⚠️ Attention: Be careful with similar symbols. Number
0(zero) can be easily confused with a letterO, and the number1(unit) - with a letterIorl. Car codes often use zero and one, but the fonts on old, faded stickers can be tricky.
For accurate decoding, it is recommended to take a high-quality photo of the sign in daylight. Then you can use online decoders or refer to auto enamels catalogs. In the catalogs you will find not only a digital code, but also the name of the color, which will help you double-check the result. For example, code Z1 Mazda has this Snowflake White Pearl, not just "white".
If several options are indicated on the plate, separated by a fraction or a comma, this may mean different shades of the same range or options for different markets. In such cases, it is best to check the VIN code with a specialized service, which will tell you exactly which option was used on the conveyor for your specific instance.
Take several photographs of the found sign from different angles and in different lighting. This will help specialists on the forum or in the color studio to better understand the erased characters if you decide to ask for help.
What to do if the nameplate is lost or damaged
The situation when the factory sticker with the paint code (“frit”) is missing, damaged by corrosion or completely unreadable occurs quite often, especially on cars with a significant mileage. In this case, there is no need to panic, as there are several proven ways to recover information. The first and most reliable method is to contact an official dealer of the brand with a request for VIN number.
Dealerships have access to the manufacturer's archives, where the full specifications of each assembled vehicle are stored. Knowing the VIN, the manager can give you a printout with the exact paint code that was used during production. However, this method may be paid or require a personal visit, since not all dealers are willing to share information with third parties without placing an order for services.
The second option is to use specialized Internet resources and databases. There are many sites where you can use the VIN code to obtain detailed information about the configuration, including the color code, for free or for a nominal fee. Examples of such resources include Vindecoder, PartsSouq, Ilcats and others. It is enough to enter the 17-digit VIN code, and the system will give you the required data.
- 🌐 Online decoders: Enter the VIN on specialized websites to obtain complete specifications.
- 🤝 Request to dealer: Official request by email or phone indicating the VIN.
- 🔬 Computer selection: Contacting a professional color studio for spectral analysis.
- 📚 Catalogs and forums: Search for information by year of manufacture and model on amateur clubs.
The third, most technically complex, but effective method is computer paint selection. Specialists use a spectrophotometer that scans the surface of the body and builds a digital color model. However, this method has a nuance: it shows the current state of the paint, which may have faded. An experienced colorist should adjust for the age of the vehicle to restore the original factory shade rather than the color of faded varnish.
The fastest way to find the paint code without a plate is to enter the VIN into an online parts catalog or contact your dealer. This guarantees 100% data accuracy.
Practical advice on selecting and storing paint
After successfully searching for the “frit” code or factory color identifier, it is important to properly organize the process of selection and further storage of materials. Even knowing the exact code, it is necessary to take into account the age of the car. If the car is more than 5-7 years old, the factory paint on the body has already been exposed to the environment, and the new enamel, mixed strictly according to the recipe, may look brighter or more contrasting.
Therefore, professionals always recommend doing paint (test application) on a separate plate or in an inconspicuous place before the main painting. This will allow you to evaluate the match of tone under different lighting conditions (sun, shadow, artificial light). If the difference is noticeable, the colorist will make the necessary adjustments to the recipe by adding other pigments.
Storing the remaining paint also requires compliance with the rules. The enamel jar should be kept in a cool, dark place with the lid tightly closed to prevent solvent evaporation and film formation. Properly preserved paint can retain its properties for several years, which is useful for future minor repairs of chips or scratches.
Do not forget that application technology (number of layers, spray gun pressure, drying temperature) also affects the final shade. Therefore, if you plan to paint the part yourself, strictly follow the technical sheet for the specific type of enamel. Compliance with all the nuances - from code search to final polishing - is the key to ensuring that your car looks like new.
Is it possible to choose paint based only on the color name?
No, you can't. The same name (for example, “Black Pearl”) can be used by a manufacturer for dozens of different shades in different years. Only a digital code guarantees an exact match of the chemical formula of the pigments.
How much does the paint selection service cost by code?
The cost depends on the region and type of paint. Selecting regular enamel can cost from 500 to 1500 rubles per 100 grams. If complex tinting of three-layer mother-of-pearl or “chameleon” is required, the price will be significantly higher due to the cost of components and labor.
Why is the new paint different from the old if the code is correct?
This phenomenon is called paint fading or aging. Under the influence of ultraviolet radiation and reagents, pigments change their properties. In such cases, not just mixing according to the code is required, but complex computer adjustment of the tone to the current state of the body.
Where else can the paint code be duplicated besides the plate?
The code can be indicated in the service book (section "Identification"), on receipts from previous repairs from official dealers, and is also sometimes applied with a marker directly to the metal of the body next to the main VIN number (rare, but it does occur).
What does the FRIT prefix mean in the documentation?
In some catalogs, especially those related to spare parts or specific markings, FRIT may appear as an abbreviation or code associated with the front part or a specific type of coating. However, in 99% of cases we are talking about a standard color code, which you need to look for using the designations Paint/Color/C/TR.