Building your own garage is the dream of many motorists who want to protect their vehicle from the weather and ensure it is safe to store. One of the most affordable and effective solutions in the modern construction market is the use of foamblock. This material has proven to be light, warm and easy to install, making it an ideal choice for self-construction without the need for heavy machinery.
Unlike traditional bricks, foam concrete blocks have a much larger size, which speeds up the masonry process several times. In addition, their low thermal conductivity allows you to create a comfortable microclimate inside the room without the need for complex insulation. However, in order for the structure to stand for decades, it is necessary to strictly observe the technology of foundation construction and choose the right solution for the bundle of elements.
In this article, we will discuss in detail all stages of work: from site preparation to roof installation. You will learn about the subtleties of working with cell-concrete, features of reinforcement and nuances of waterproofing. Competent approach to each stage will allow you to save significant funds and get a high-quality structure that fully meets your needs.
Design and calculation of materials
Every building starts with careful planning. Before purchasing materials, you need to decide on the dimensions of the future garage. The standard size for a single vehicle is considered 3x6 meters with a height of walls about 2.5-3 meters. If you plan to store a motorcycle, bicycles or organize a small workshop, the width should be increased to 4 meters.
At the design stage, it is important to consider the thickness of the walls. For a garage in the middle of Russia, masonry in one block, that is, 300-400 mm, is considered optimal. This will ensure sufficient strength and thermal insulation. Do not forget to calculate the number of windows and doorways, as well as gates, to adjust the estimate and not overpay for extra blocks.
Calculation of the amount of material is made based on the volume of walls minus openings. To the resulting number, be sure to add 5-7% on fight and trimDuring transportation and operation, some blocks may be damaged. Also, think in advance about the type of foundation, which will depend on the depth of freezing of the ground and the level of groundwater on your site.
- 🚗 Determine the exact dimensions of the perimeter and the height of the walls for purchasing blocks.
- 🏗️ Choose the type of foundation (ribbon or plate) based on soil analysis.
- 🚪 Calculate the amount of materials for the gate, windows and doors.
- 💰 Add 10-15% to the final estimate for contingency expenses.
Preparation of the foundation and foundation
The foundation is the basis of the durability of the entire structure. Since foam blocks are lighter than bricks, the load on the base will be less, but it is absolutely impossible to save on its quality. The most common solution for a garage is ribbon. It runs along the entire perimeter of the building and under the internal load-bearing walls, if they are provided for by the project.
The process begins with marking the site and digging the trench. The depth of the foundation should be below the level of freezing of the soil, which in the middle band is about 1.2-1.5 meters. At the bottom of the trench is laid sand-gravel cushion thickness of 20-30 cm, which is carefully trampled. This is necessary to remove moisture and prevent soil swelling.
⚠️ Warning: Before pouring concrete, make sure the bottom of the trench is perfectly aligned. Elevation changes can lead to uneven shrinkage of the foundation and the appearance of cracks in the walls of the garage.
Then a formwork of boards or plywood is installed and a reinforcement frame is knitted. For the garage, it is enough to use a rebar with a diameter of 10-12 mm. After the installation of the frame, the concrete of the brand is poured M200 or M250. It is important to pour the solution continuously to avoid the formation of “cold seams” that weaken the structure. Complete drying of concrete takes 28 days, but you can start laying walls after 7-10 days.
☑️ Foundation readiness
Technology of wall masonry from foam blocks
The laying of the first row is the most important stage, since it is on it that the geometry of the entire building depends. The blocks are laid on a cement-sand mortar, which allows smoothing out possible irregularities of the foundation. The thickness of the seam in the first row can reach 10-20 mm. Be sure to use it. waterproofing (ruberoid or hydroisol) between the foundation and the first row of blocks.
You need to start the masonry from the corners. Having installed corner blocks and checking their horizontality level, pull the cord-mooring. The following rows can be placed on a special glue, which is applied in a thin layer (2-3 mm) with a comb spatula. This allows you to minimize heat loss through the seams and save material.
Every third or fourth row of masonry must be reinforced. To do this, the blocks are cut through the rods, where the fittings with a diameter of 8 mm are placed, after which they are filled with glue. Reinforcement significantly increases the strength of the walls to bend and prevents cracks. Pay special attention to the ligation of seams: vertical seams of adjacent rows should not coincide.
- 🧱 Place the first row on a cement solution to align the base.
- 📏 Constantly monitor the horizontal and vertical level.
- ⛓️ Reinforce each 3-4 row with metal bars.
- 🔨 Use a rubber kiyan to precipitate blocks when laying.
When working with foam blocks, use a special grater to level the surface of each row before laying the next one. This will provide a perfect flatness and thin seam.
Installation of the armopository and installation of gates
After the erection of the walls to the required height, it is necessary to equip the armopod belt. This is a monolithic reinforced concrete tape that runs along the upper perimeter of the walls. It serves to evenly distribute the load from the roof and binds the structure into a single whole. Without armopod belt, roof shrinkage can lead to deformation of walls.
For the installation of the armoposse on the upper row of blocks, formwork is installed, the reinforcement frame is laid and concrete is poured. During or immediately after the process, it is necessary to lay anchor-bolt or metal plates for attaching the mauerlat roof. Also at this stage, openings are formed under the gate, if they were not made in the masonry process.
The installation of the gate is a critical moment. If you use swing or sliding gates, make sure that the side posts of the metal profile are reliably welded to mortgages in the armopositor or embedded in masonry. For sectional gates, it is important to perfectly align the side openings so that the guides stand strictly vertically.
⚠️ Warning: Do not install heavy metal doors immediately after the walls are laid. Give the structure time to shrink (at least 2-3 weeks), otherwise the distortion can disrupt the operation of the opening mechanisms.
As jumpers above the gates and windows, you can use ready-made concrete jumpers or make them yourself, pouring concrete into the formwork right on the spot, having previously laid the rebar. The width of the support of the lintel on the walls should be at least 20-25 cm on each side.
Roofing and overlapping
For a garage of foam blocks, a single-slop or gable roof is most often chosen. The single-sided design is easier to perform and cheaper, but requires the organization of the correct slope for water flow. A gable roof allows you to organize an attic space for storing things and better retains heat.
Installation begins with installation mauerlat - wooden beam with a cross section of 150x150 mm, which is attached to the armopository on anchor studs. On the mauerlat installed truss legs with a step of 60-80 cm. Between the rafters, a insulation is laid (mineral wool or polystyrene foam), which is closed with a vapor insulation film from the inside and a waterproofing membrane from the outside.
| Type of roofing | Difficulty of installation | Cost | Heat insulation |
|---|---|---|---|
| single-sided | Low. | Low. | It requires careful insulation of the ceiling |
| Two-sided | Medium | Medium | Best on the airbag. |
| Flat (soft) | Tall. | Tall. | Requires high quality waterproofing |
As a finishing cover for the garage is excellent. flooring, metal-tile Or soft bitumen shingles. The choice depends on your budget and aesthetic preferences. It is important to ensure a reliable roof overhang (at least 50 cm) so that rainwater does not drain directly onto the walls of foam blocks that can absorb moisture.
Do I need to insulate the roof of the garage?
If you plan to use the garage only for parking in the warm season, you can do without insulation. However, if you want to work in a garage in winter or keep the car engine warm, roof and gable insulation is a must. This will reduce heating costs and prevent condensation.
Interior and exterior decoration
Foam blocks need mandatory protection from moisture, since the material has a porous structure and can absorb water. Outside the wall must be plastered with special vapor permeable compounds or sheathed with siding using a ventilated facade. This will remove excess moisture from the walls and protect them from precipitation.
Inside the garage, it is also recommended to make plaster or trim with a wagon / GCL. The floor in the garage is best made concrete with topping (hardened top layer) or laid out with porcelain/clinker tiles. This will ensure the durability of the coating and the absence of dust, which inevitably forms during the operation of the concrete base.
Don't forget the vents. Even in an unheated garage, air exchange is necessary to remove exhaust gases and moisture. The vents are made at the floor, and the hoods are made under the ceiling. In the observation pit or cellar, ventilation should be separate.
- 🎨 Use facade paints with high vapor permeability.
- 💧 Treat the cap with a hydrophobizer to protect against splashes.
- 🌬️ Install deflectors on the ventilation pipes to improve traction.
- 🔌 Conduct electricity and lighting before the finishing of the walls.
⚠️ Warning: When finishing the interior walls of the garage, avoid using materials that completely block the steam output (for example, a regular plastic film under plaster). This will lead to the accumulation of moisture inside the blocks and a decrease in their thermal insulation properties.
The main task of finishing is not only aesthetics, but also protection of the porous foam block from moisture. High-quality hydrophobization will extend the life of the garage for decades.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Do I need to insulate the garage from foam blocks?
The foam block itself is a good thermal insulator, but for comfortable work in winter, additional wall insulation (usually 50-100 mm polystyrene foam or minowat) outside or inside will not be superfluous. It will also prevent the formation of condensation on the walls at temperature changes.
Which solution is better: cement or glue?
The first row is always placed on a cement-sand solution for alignment. Subsequent rows are economically and technically more profitable to put on a special glue for foam blocks. It gives a thinner seam, which reduces heat loss, and allows you to more accurately observe the geometry of the masonry.
How much does the garage dry from foam blocks before finishing?
The walls of foam blocks should be allowed to dry and go through at least one cycle of freezing-thawing before finishing, so that possible defects appear. The minimum period of standing the box is 1 season, but you can start to roof and install the gate immediately after the strength of the armoposte.
Can I build a garage from foam blocks in winter?
You can build at temperatures up to -10 ° C, using anti-frost additives in solution or glue. However, working with wet processes (concrete foundation and armoposse) in winter requires heating concrete or the use of special additives, which increases the cost.