Repairing a garage, production workshop or even a residential premises often requires the creation of a wear-resistant and aesthetic coating, and that is epoxy self-leveling floor becomes the ideal solution for such problems. Consumers are increasingly paying attention to the assortment of large construction hypermarkets, such as Leroy Merlin, where they can find both ready-made two-component mixtures and individual components to create a unique design. In this article we will analyze in detail what exactly the chain of stores offers, how not to make a mistake with the choice of material and whether it is worth taking on the installation yourself.
The modern building materials market is saturated with offers, however Leroy Merlin stands out for the availability of goods for a wide range of buyers. Epoxy compounds are presented here in various price categories, from budget options for technical premises to premium decorative solutions. It is important to understand that purchasing material is only the first stage, followed by complex preparation of the base and adherence to pouring technology, on which 90% of the success of the entire operation depends.
Before you go to the store or place an order online, you need to clearly define your purposes for using the coating and your budget. Self-leveling floor based on epoxy resins has high chemical resistance and mechanical strength, but requires careful preparation of the concrete base. We'll look at the key aspects of choice, compare popular brands, and give practical installation tips to ensure your coating lasts for decades without cracking or peeling.
Benefits of epoxy coatings and their applications
The main advantage of epoxy compounds is their ability to form a monolithic, seamless surface that is absolutely impermeable to moisture and dust. Unlike traditional concrete screed, which over time begins to “dust” and crumble, epoxy resin creates an inert layer that is resistant to oils, gasoline, acids and alkalis. This makes such floors indispensable in garages, car washes, warehouses and food production.
It is important to note that modern materials make it possible to create not only utilitarian gray surfaces, but also real works of art. Adding colored chips, quartz sand or using 3D imaging technology turns the floor into a central element of the interior. Decorative floors often chosen for residential premises, offices and showrooms, where visual appeal is important along with durability.
Among the key advantages it is worth highlighting:
- 🛡️ High mechanical strength and resistance to impacts from heavy objects.
- 💧 Completely waterproof and hygienic, making cleaning easier.
- 🎨 Wide possibilities for tinting and creating a unique design.
- ⏳ Long service life, which with proper use exceeds 20 years.
However, it is worth remembering that epoxy floors are sensitive to ultraviolet light. If the room has panoramic windows and is located on the sunny side, over time the surface may turn yellow. For such cases, it is better to consider polyurethane analogues or special UV-stable compounds, which can also be found in the assortment of large retailers.
Leroy Merlin range: brands and types of mixtures
The Leroy Merlin catalog contains both (own) brands and products from well-known manufacturers of construction chemicals. The main division occurs according to the type of purpose: thin-layer paint coatings, self-leveling floors of medium thickness and highly filled systems. For the garage it is most often chosen self-leveling floors 2 to 5 mm thick, as they can withstand the weight of a car and falling tools.
Products under the brand are popular Bitumast, Unicraft and Tikkurila (if presented in the current assortment). Budget options are often one-component paints or varnishes that are only suitable for pedestrian areas or as a finishing coat for dust removal. Two-component compositions, consisting of a base and a hardener, are more expensive, but provide the stated chemical resistance.
When choosing, pay attention to the pot life of the mixture. After mixing the ingredients, you have a limited time (usually 30-40 minutes) to create a solution. For large areas this is a critical parameter, since the mixture quickly thickens and loses its fluidity. For residential premises up to 20 sq.m. quick-drying compositions with a polymerization time of 24 hours are optimal.
You can also find special additives on sale:
- 🌫️ Quartz sand to increase roughness and strength.
- ✨ Glitters and sequins for a decorative effect.
- 🎨 Pigment pastes for tinting transparent bases.
Don't forget to purchase related products: short-pile rollers (ordinary rollers are not suitable for epoxy; they dissolve), needle rollers for removing bubbles, and special shoes with spikes (wet shoes) for moving on the poured floor.
Calculation of the amount of material and preparation of the base
One of the most common mistakes when purchasing materials from Leroy Merlin is incorrect calculation of volume. The consumption of the epoxy mixture directly depends on the porosity of the concrete base and the desired layer thickness. The standard consumption is about 1.5–2 kg per 1 square meter with a thickness of 1 mm, but rough concrete will require significantly more material for primary impregnation.
Preparing the foundation is a stage where neither time nor money can be saved. Concrete must be dry (humidity no more than 4-5%), durable and free from oils and dust. The ideal preparation tool is shot blasting machine or a powerful industrial vacuum cleaner. If the concrete is old and loose, additional grinding or the application of a strengthening primer may be required.
☑️ Checklist for preparing the foundation
The table below will help you navigate the approximate consumption of materials for various types of coatings:
| Coverage type | Layer thickness (mm) | Consumption per 1 m² (kg) | Drying time (hours) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Primer layer | 0.1 - 0.2 | 0.3 - 0.4 | 12 - 24 |
| Thin layer (painting) | 0.5 - 1.0 | 0.8 - 1.2 | 24 - 48 |
| Self-leveling floor (standard) | 2.0 - 3.0 | 3.0 - 4.5 | 48 - 72 |
| Highly filled floor | 4.0 - 6.0 | 6.0 - 9.0 | 72+ |
It is important to purchase material with a margin of 10-15%, especially if you are tinting the floor yourself. Different batches of paint may differ in shade, so you need to mix the entire volume at once or work “wet” at the joint to avoid visible color transitions.
DIY installation technology: step-by-step instructions
The process of pouring an epoxy floor requires strict adherence to temperature conditions. The optimum temperature of the air and the base should be in the range from +10 to +25°C. At lower temperatures polymerization may not start or proceed incorrectly, resulting in a sticky surface. Drafts are also unacceptable, as they can introduce dust onto the sticky layer.
First the mixture is prepared. The components (base and hardener) must be mixed with a construction mixer at low speed for 3-5 minutes, carefully moving the blades along the bottom and walls of the bucket. After this, the mixture should stand for 5-10 minutes to allow air bubbles to escape, and only then it should be poured onto the floor. You need to work quickly, distributing the material with a squeegee and rolling with a needle roller.
What to do if the mixture begins to thicken in the bucket?
If you notice that the epoxy mixture in the bucket begins to heat up and thicken faster than usual, stop working with that batch immediately. Pour the mixture onto cardboard or into an unnecessary container to harden. You cannot use thickened material - it has already lost adhesion and will not spread evenly, forming lumps. In hot weather, mix the ingredients in smaller volumes so that you can produce them in 20-30 minutes.
Pay special attention to safety. Vapors from epoxy solvents are toxic, so working without a respirator and gloves is unacceptable. Ensure good ventilation of the room during work and the first 24 hours after pouring.
Main stages of work:
- 🧹 Thorough cleaning and dusting of the floor.
- 🖌️ Applying a primer (primer) to improve adhesion.
- 🪣 Preparation of the working mixture strictly according to the instructions on the package.
- 🌊 Filling and leveling the layer with a squeegee.
- 🎡 Rolling with a needle roller to remove air.
Use paint shoes (soles with spikes) to move across the flooded floor. They allow you to walk on a fresh epoxy layer without leaving marks or compromising the integrity of the coating.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes that ruin all their efforts. One of the most common problems is the appearance of bubbles on the surface. This happens if the base was wet or porous, and air from the concrete began to escape when heated, breaking through the already set layer of epoxy. To avoid this, primer should completely seal the pores of the concrete.
⚠️ Attention: Never pour epoxy flooring over fresh concrete screed that is less than 28 days old. Residual moisture and alkaline environment will destroy the coating, causing it to peel and swell.
Another mistake is failure to comply with mixing proportions. Some “craftsmen” try to save hardener or, conversely, add more of it to speed up drying. This is a gross violation of the chemistry of the process: the floor will either remain sticky forever, or become brittle and crack in a month. Use only measuring containers and scales.
Expansion joints are also often ignored. If the area of the room is large, the screed must contain expansion joints, which must be transferred to the finishing coating. Epoxy is not elastic like rubber, and with the thermal expansion of concrete it will simply crack.
The quality of foundation preparation determines 80% of success. Skimping on priming or sanding is guaranteed to result in the expensive epoxy layer peeling off in a short time.
Epoxy floor care and service life
After complete polymerization (usually 7 days to achieve maximum properties), the floor is ready for use. Maintenance of this coating is minimal: regular wet cleaning and periodic washing with water and neutral detergents. Abrasive powders and aggressive chemicals are not recommended to be used so as not to disturb the gloss.
In garages and industries where aggressive liquids (brake fluid, acids) can be spilled, it is better to remove stains immediately. Although epoxy is chemical resistant, prolonged exposure to concentrates can leave matte marks. To restore shine, you can apply special polishes for epoxy floors every few years.
When installed and used correctly epoxy coating serves for decades. If local damage occurs (chips from falling of a heavy tool), cosmetic repairs are possible: the defect is cleaned, degreased and filled with a repair compound.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Can epoxy flooring be poured over tile or wood subfloors?
On tiles - it is possible, but special preparation is required: matting the surface (grinding) to create adhesion and the use of special primers with a high content of quartz sand. On wood - it is highly not recommended, since wood “breathes” and changes size due to humidity, which will lead to rupture of the hard epoxy layer. It is permissible only on plywood or OSB with preliminary puttying of the seams and sanding, but the risk of cracks remains.
How long does it take for a floor to dry in Leroy Merlin and when can you park the machine?
You can usually walk on the floor after 24 hours (at +20°C). However, it is recommended to give a full mechanical load, such as driving a car or installing a heavy machine, no earlier than after 5-7 days. Full chemical resistance is also achieved after a week.
What is the difference between epoxy flooring and polyurethane flooring?
Epoxy floors are harder, more compressive and cheaper, but are susceptible to temperature changes and UV radiation (they turn yellow). Polyurethane floors are more elastic, resistant to scratches and frost, do not turn yellow, but are more expensive and sensitive to moisture during installation. For a heated garage or warehouse, epoxy is better, for an unheated room or street - polyurethane.
Do I need to remove the old coat of paint before painting?
Yes, definitely. The epoxy resin must be in direct contact with the concrete base. Old paint, oil stains or varnish will act as a release layer and the new floor will simply come off in layers. It is necessary to mechanically remove all old coatings to clean concrete.