Modern interiors dictate strict requirements for aesthetics and minimalism, where each element must be functional and visually unobtrusive. Integrated powershield It is one of the key components of the power supply system, which, with the right approach to installation and finishing, becomes almost invisible against the wall. The hidden installation allows you to significantly save useful space of the corridor or hallway, removing bulky structures from view.
Choice of model paint opens up wide opportunities for designers and homeowners, allowing you to disguise the technical hatch under the color of the walls or, conversely, to highlight it as an art object. However, in order for the result to please for many years, it is necessary to strictly observe the technology of preparing a niche and subsequent surface finishing. Errors at the installation stage can lead to deformation of the door or the inability to open it after finishing work.
In this article, we will discuss in detail all the nuances of choosing, installing and decorating hidden switchboards. You will learn which materials are best suited for different types of walls, how to properly prepare the metal surface for painting and what tools will be required for high-quality work.
Design features of hidden installation shields
Embedded shields are radically different from overhead analogues in their design, which involves immersion of the body into the wall thickness. The main element here is a metal box, which has special ears or legs to attach to building structures. The depth of such models varies, but for apartments most often used options for 12, 18 or 24 modules with a depth of 90 to 120 mm.
A key feature of the models designed for subsequent painting is the material of the front frame and doors. Most often used cold rolled steel thickness from 0.8 to 1.2 mm, covered with primer or powder paint of light shade. Such surface preparation is necessary to ensure maximum adhesion of the finishing coating, whether it is interior paint, putty or decorative plaster.
- 🔹 Metallic case provides the necessary fire safety and mechanical protection of automation.
- 🔹 Removable frame allows you to separate the door from the housing for the convenience of painting outside the installation site.
- 🔹 Adjustable hinges allow you to accurately expose the gaps after applying layers of paint and plaster.
Buy a shield with a margin of depth if you plan to use thick-layer plaster or wallpaper so that the door does not rest on the contents.
It is important to note that the quality of the factory primer plays a critical role. If the surface has visible defects, rust spots or uneven coating, it will have to be cleaned and ground again. Cheap models often sin with a thin metal that can lead when heated or mechanically exposed during installation.
Selection of location and preparation of niche for the build-in
Planning of the installation site begins long before the purchase of the equipment itself. It is necessary to take into account not only the dimensions of the case, but also the technological gaps necessary for laying cables and ease of installation. The optimum height of the installation is 1.5-1.7 meters from the floor, so that the upper row of automatic machines is at eye level, which facilitates reading and control.
In preparing a niche in a concrete or brick wall, a drill and chisel perforator is used, or a specialized throbororez. The sample depth should be 10-15 mm greater than the depth of the case to provide space for the bends of incoming cables. In walls of drywall or aerated concrete, the process is simpler, but requires the installation of additional reinforcing structures.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to violate the integrity of the load-bearing reinforcement rods in monolithic walls when hollowing out a niche. If you stumble upon a rebar, shift the installation site or reduce the sampling depth using a flatter shield.
☑️ Preparing a niche
For walls from GKL (gypsum board), it is necessary to use embedded elements from plywood or profile, to which the shield will be attached. Just to fasten a heavy metal box to a sheet of drywall is impossible - it will not withstand the weight and will break out when opening the door. In this case, the niche is formed from the profiles UW and CW before the stitching sheets.
Technology of installation in different types of walls
The process of fixing the shield depends on the base material. Concrete and brick walls use nail dowels or anchor bolts that run through mounting holes in the rear wall or side ends of the body. Preliminary in the case it is necessary to break the plugs for the input of cables, taking care not to damage the insulation of wires with sharp edges.
After installing the body in the niche, the space between the metal and the wall is foamed with mounting foam or filled with solution. Foam is preferred, as it has better thermal and sound insulation properties, and also compensates for the temperature expansion of the metal. However, it is important not to overdo it with volume so that the expanding foam does not deform the thin walls of the box.
| Type of wall | Fastening | Features of installation | The necessary tool |
|---|---|---|---|
| Concrete/Brickpoint | Dowel nails 6x40 | Requires strobbling, possible sealing solution | Perforator, chisel |
| drywall | Metal screws | Required mortgages from plywood or profile | Screwwire, knife. |
| gas-concrete | Special. pore dowels. concrete | Soft material, easily crumbled when drilled | Drill, hacksaw |
| Tree/Bruce | Wood-throwing screws | High risk of fire, asbestos gasket is needed | Screwover, stamezka |
The fixation should be rigid, without backlashes. If the shield dangles in a niche, when closing a heavy metal door, an unpleasant roar will occur, and over time the structure itself will shake. For vertical and horizontal alignment, use the building level and plastic wedges.
Nuances of aerated concrete
Aerated concrete is a porous material and not very durable for compressing points. The usual dowels in it are poorly kept. Use special spiral dowels or chemical anchors to securely fix heavy shields.
Preparation of the surface for painting and putty
Once the shield is securely fixed and connected (or left to connect after finishing), the stage of preparation of the front part begins. Factory coating is often glossy or semi-gloss, which has a bad effect on the grip with the putty. The first step is to mat the surface with fine sandpaper (P240–P320 grain).
To obtain a perfectly flat surface, merging with the wall, it is necessary to use a reinforcement mesh (selpian) at the junctions of the metal frame and wall. This will prevent cracks in the contact point of dissimilar materials (metal and plaster) at temperature expansions. The net is inserted into the layer of the starting putty.
- 🎨 Degreasing surface with alcohol or white spirit before applying the soil.
- 🎨 ground-breaker This is a "concrete contact" type to create a rough layer that improves adhesion.
- 🎨 Spattle in 2-3 layers with intermediate grinding to achieve flatness.
Pay special attention to the edges of the door. If you plan to paint the color of the walls, the frame of the door is better to remove, splash and paint separately, and then hang. If the shield will be sealed with wallpaper completely together with the door, make sure that the thickness of the layer of glue and wallpaper will not interfere with the free movement of the hinges.
The quality of the surface preparation for painting determines 90% of the success. Do not skimp on putty and grinding, as metal does not forgive mistakes like drywall.
Finishing: painting and decoration
The choice of finishing depends on the interior of the room. For corridors and hallways where there is a high probability of contamination, it is better to use washable water-based interior paints (acrylic or latex). They are resistant to wet cleaning and do not turn yellow with time. It is best to apply paint with a velour roller in two layers to obtain a uniform color.
If you want to create an invisibility effect, you can use the same paint as for walls, but add a color slightly more intensely, since metal and plaster can absorb light in different ways. Also popular are decorative plaster techniques that allow you to hide the texture of the metal under the layer of Venetian or bark beetle.
⚠️ Attention: Before applying the finishing paint, be sure to wait for the complete drying of the putty and primer. Residual moisture trapped under a layer of paint on the metal will cause the coating to swell and peel off after a short time.
For fans of non-standard solutions, there are special magnetic paints that allow you to turn the shield door into a surface for notes, or slate paints that create the effect of a school board. Such coatings require special application technology and often need a protective lacquer layer.
Frequent errors in installation and finishing
One of the most common mistakes is ignoring the thickness of finishing materials. Owners forget that a layer of tile glue and the tile itself, or thick wallpaper with texture, can reduce the gap between the door and the frame to a critical minimum. As a result, the door simply stops closing or opens with difficulty.
Another mistake is to paint over or shpattle technological gaps and locks. Often inexperienced craftsmen so carefully mask the shield that they forget to leave access to the latch or loops. Always check the functionality of the opening mechanism at each stage of finishing.
- 🚫 No mortgages In drywall, leading to the removal of the shield.
- 🚫 Use of plaster plaster in rooms with high humidity without waterproofing.
- 🚫 Cable closure It is in the wall without the possibility of replacing or adding it.
The problem of corrosion is also worth mentioning. If the shield is installed in a bathroom or unheated garage, conventional interior paint will not protect the metal from rust. In such cases, the use of specialized anticorrosive enamels for metal resistant to temperature and humidity changes is required.
Can the shield be completely covered with wallpaper?
Yes, you can, but with caution. A thin wallpaper for painting is a great option. However, dense vinyl or textile wallpaper can create too much gap or interfere with the operation of the lock. It is better to glue wallpaper on the frame, carefully cutting them along the contour, or use removable decor elements.
Do I need to remove the door before painting?
It is highly recommended to remove the door for high-quality painting. This will avoid getting paint on the hinges, seals and the interior of the body, and also provide a smooth coating without stains in the corners.
What paint to choose for a metal shield?
Optimal water-dispersion acrylic paints for internal work. They are odorless, dry quickly and form an elastic film that does not crack when the metal vibrates. For wet rooms, choose compositions with antibacterial additives.