Owners of private garages often face a dilemma: each time open a massive sectional or swinging gates in order to just go inside, or to equip a special passageway. The solution to this problem is gatewayThis saves time and effort, especially in the cold season. However, such modernization requires a competent approach, since interference with the design of the canvas can affect its rigidity and thermal insulation.
In this article, we will discuss in detail all aspects of creating a passageway in garage doors, starting from the choice of design type and ending with the intricacies of installing frames and locks. You will learn why this solution is categorically not suitable for some types of gates, and how to avoid common errors during installation.
The feasibility of installing a gate in different types of gates
Before you start to use tools, you need to objectively assess whether your current design allows the installation of an additional door. Not all garage doors respond equally to a violation of the integrity of the canvas. For example, in sectional Each panel works as a single unit with the lifting mechanism, and cutting the opening can lead to distortions and breakage of the spring mechanism.
The most favorable for such modifications are classical swing-gate, consisting of two wings. Here the load is distributed evenly, and the insertion of the wicket into one of the flaps (usually the one that opens first) does not carry critical risks to the load-bearing ability. It is also possible to install in the sliding-gate, if the frame design and the receding from the edge allows.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly not recommended to cut the gate into sectional gates with a torsion mechanism without professional recalculation of the load on the shaft and springs. This can lead to the breaking of the cables or the destruction of the canvas during lifting.
If you are planning to install in gatewaywhere the canvas is a single rigid frame, the creation of a passage is almost impossible without a complete replacement of the frame. Violation of the geometry of such a frame will make it impossible to seal and smoothly run.
Design features and choice of materials
The gate built into the gate is a complex engineering design that must withstand wind loads, temperature changes and frequent use. The basis is the frame, which is most often made of a profile pipe with a cross section of 40x20 mm or 60x40 mm. The choice of profile depends on the total weight of the gate and the required stiffness.
The same material is used for the sheathing as on the main gate to maintain the aesthetic integrity and the same degree of thermal insulation. It can be flooring, sandwich panels or sheet steel. It is important that heat-insulation The door corresponded to the rest of the canvas, otherwise there will be constant heat loss in the place of passage.
- 🚪 Frame: welded frame of profile pipe, reinforced with diagonal slanting to prevent sagging.
- 🔒 Locking mechanisms: cut locks with drill protection and additional rigs for fixing in the gate frame.
- ❄️ Insulation: use of polystyrene foam or high-density mineral wool, closed on both sides with metal.
Particular attention should be paid to the loops. Since the door in the gate is loaded only on one side (unlike a normal door), it is necessary to use reinforced doors. card-loop with bearings. The number of hinges is usually two or three, depending on the weight of the structure.
Use hinges on ball bearings with the ability to adjust the height - this will compensate for the natural shrinkage of the metal and sagging of the door over time.
Calculation of dimensions and preparation of the opening
Proper calculation of sizes is the key to successful operation. The standard width of the passage for a comfortable passage of one person is 800-900 mm, and the height is 1900-2000 mm. However, these parameters can vary depending on the dimensions of the garage cloth itself. The minimum width of the lintel above the door and the sides of the walls shall not be less than 150 mm to maintain strength.
Technological gaps must be taken into account when marking up. Between the frame of the gate and the frame of the gate, a gap of 10-15 mm around the perimeter is left for installation and possible expansion of the metal. Also important is the gap between the door leaf and the box - usually 3-5 mm, so that the door does not jam in the winter.
Below is a table of recommended dimensions of structural elements for a standard gate:
| Parameter | Value (mm) | Appointment |
|---|---|---|
| The width of the opening | 850–900 | Comfortable passage with things |
| Height of the opening | 1950–2000 | Standard human growth |
| Frame profile thickness | 40x20 or 60x40 | Carcass bearing capacity |
| Gap mounting | 10–15 | For foaming and adjustment |
Marking on the gates is made using a laser level or a long ruler, checking the diagonals of the future rectangle. Any deviation from the vertical will lead to distortion and difficulties with opening.
Why is the height reserve important?
Keep the stock at least 20 mm above the height of the tallest member of the family. Winter shoes, hats or items can accidentally hit the top joint if the door is too low.
Step-by-step instructions for wicket installation
The installation process begins with the dismantling of the skin in the future opening, if the gate is already installed. If the gate is only planned to be made, then it is better to weld the gate into the already ready frame of the flap on the ground, before the final painting. Consider the option of upgrading the existing gate.
First, the hole is cut along the marked lines. Use a Bulgarian with a metal disc, observing safety precautions. The edges of the cut are cleared of burrs. Next, the frame of the wicket is made, which should be slightly smaller than the cut hole to provide gaps.
☑️ Installation phases
The next step is to weld the loops. One part of the loop is cooked to the frame of the wicket, the second - to the frame of the gate or to a specially reinforced profile, boiled into the opening. Welding seams They must be solid and high-quality to withstand dynamic loads when slamming the door.
After the door is hinged, opening limiters and return bars for locks are installed. It is important to check the ease of travel: the door should open freely, without distortions, and fit tightly to the frame in a closed state. If used finisherThe installation is done last.
⚠️ Attention: When welding hinges, be sure to fix the position of the door with wedges or rods to exclude the slightest shift during cooling of the metal. Otherwise, the door is guaranteed to be skewed.
Insulation and sealing of the passageway
The garage is often used as a workshop or storage space for temperature sensitive items, so the thermal insulation of the gate is critical. A simple layer of metal is not enough – a full-fledged layer is needed. heat-insulating cake.
A heater is placed inside the door frame. The best option is considered extruded polystyrene foam (for example, penplex), which does not absorb moisture and has a low thermal conductivity. The material plates are tightly inserted between the frame profiles, and all the gaps are filled with mounting foam.
- 🧱 Layer 1: The interior lining (sheet of metal or plywood).
- 🛡️ Layer 2: A heater, laid without voids and gaps.
- 🔩 Layer 3: External skin, corresponding to the design of the gate.
For sealing on the perimeter of the door is necessarily installed sealer. It is best to use a rubber profile on adhesive basis or in a groove, which ensures a tight fit of the canvas to the frame, protecting the garage from drafts, dust and insects.
High-quality insulation of the gate reduces the heat loss of the garage by up to 30% and prevents the formation of condensation on the metal, which is the main cause of corrosion.
Choice of locks and fittings
The safety of the garage depends on the reliability of the locking devices. Since the wicket is a weak point in the overall protection system, the choice of locks should be taken as seriously as possible. Do not skimp on hardware - cheap mechanisms are opened in seconds.
It is recommended to use a combination of two locks: one suvald and one cylinder. Suvald Castle It provides basic protection against force burglary, and the cylinder (especially with drill protection) is convenient for daily use. Brand models have proven themselves well. Cisa, Mottura or Garant.
Additionally, you can install vertical rigs (bars) that fix the door in the upper and lower part of the gate frame. This makes it much harder to pull the cloth. The handle should be comfortable, preferably with a lining that protects from the cold in winter.
⚠️ Attention: Never install plastic locks in street garage doors. The frost will make the plastic brittle, and the mechanism will jam at the most inopportune moment.
Do not forget about regular maintenance: lubricate the mechanisms with graphite lubricant or special compositions for the winter period (for example, WD-40 Specialist) so that they do not freeze.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I make a wicket in the already installed sectional gates?
Technically, this is possible, but it is highly recommended not to do it yourself. Requires dismantling of panels, strengthening the structure, recalculation of the balance of springs and the installation of additional guides. Often the cost of such a revision is comparable to the purchase of a new gate with a finished gate.
What is the minimum gap between the door and the frame?
The optimal clearance is 3-5 mm around the perimeter. A smaller gap will lead to swelling of the seal or deformation of the metal, a larger one will create cold bridges and reduce burglary resistance.
Do I need to boil a visor over the gate?
Yeah, if the door goes straight out and not into the vestibule. The visor will protect the lock and seal from direct precipitation and solar ultraviolet radiation, which will significantly extend the service life of the fittings.
What is better to insulate: foam or minwota?
For a metal door in the garage, extruded polystyrene foam is better suited. Mineral wool is hygroscopic and when moisture is ingested loses its properties, and can also contribute to the corrosion of the metal from the inside.