Wood burning stove in a motorhome: a complete guide to selection, installation and operation

A motorhome with a wood-burning stove is not only the romance of traveling with the crackling of logs, but also a real opportunity to save on gas or electricity in the wild. However, installing a stove in a camper requires not only the ability to use tools, but also an understanding heating engineering, fire safety and even the aerodynamics of the cabin. In this article, we will look at how to choose a stove for a specific motorhome, avoid installation mistakes and make heating as efficient as possible - without the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning or starting a fire.

Many camper owners are abandoning wood stoves in favor of gas or diesel heaters, citing installation complexity. But practice shows: a properly designed system with a wood-burning stove is cheaper to operate, does not depend on gas stations and is capable of heating the interior even when -20°C. The main thing is to take into account stove weight, heat transfer, chimney material and ventilation features of your motorhome. Below is a step-by-step guide from choosing a model to first ignition.

Pros and cons of a wood burning stove in a motorhome

Wood burning stoves for campervans are gaining popularity, but they are not for everyone. Let's look at the objective advantages and disadvantages so you can make an informed decision.

Benefits:

• 🔥 Autonomy: no need for gas cylinders, electricity or diesel - fuel (firewood, briquettes) can be found almost everywhere.
• 💰 Economical: the cost of firewood is 3–5 times lower than gas or electricity for long trips.
• 🌡️ High heat dissipation: modern furnaces are designed so that the efficiency reaches 80–85% (against 50–60% from homemade potbelly stoves).
• 🛠️ Ease of repair: Unlike gas boilers, a wood stove can be repaired independently even in the field.

Disadvantages:

• ⚠️ Fire Hazard: risk of fire due to improper installation or operation (especially in wooden motorhomes).
• 📏 Occupies place: even a compact stove “eats” useful space, and the chimney requires a sealed outlet through the roof.
• 🕒 Requires time: lighting, maintaining the fire and cleaning out the ashes takes up to 30–40 minutes a day.
• 🚫 Prohibitions in some countries: In Europe (eg Germany or Austria), the use of wood stoves in campsites may be restricted by local regulations.

⚠️ Attention: Stoves with an open firebox (such as potbelly stoves) are categorically not recommended for motorhomes! They burn oxygen in the cabin and increase the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning. Use only sealed ovens with external air supply (for example, models Dickinson or Cubby).

Top 5 Wood Stoves for RVs in 2026

The choice of stove depends on the size of the motorhome, climate conditions and budget. We analyzed the market and compiled a rating of proven models, taking into account reviews from camper owners.

Model	Power (kW)	Weight (kg)	Features	Price (from)
Dickinson Newport P9000	1.5–5	18	Stainless steel, external air supply, glass door	120 000 ₽
Cubby Wood Stove	2–6	22	Compact, suitable for minibuses, adjustable traction	95 000 ₽
Dwarf 3kw	3–5	25	Cast iron firebox, long service life, suitable for large motorhomes	150 000 ₽
Kni-Co Treker	2–4	15	The lightest in the rating, fast heating, budget option	75 000 ₽
Searle Mini	1.8–4.5	20	Possibility of connecting a water circuit for hot water	130 000 ₽

For most motorhomes up to 6 meters in length, ovens with a capacity of 2–4 kW. If you are traveling in the far north (below -25°C), consider models with a water circuit (e.g. Searle Mini) - they allow heat to be evenly distributed throughout the cabin through radiators.

How to calculate the required furnace power

An error in calculations leads to two problems: a stove that is too weak will not warm up the interior, and an overly powerful one will overheat the motorhome and require frequent firewood. Use a simple formula:

Power (kW) = (Interior volume in m³ × Temperature difference × Heat loss coefficient) / 860

Where:

• Interior volume = length × width × height (for example, for a motorhome 6x2x2 m volume = 24 m³).
• Temperature difference = desired inside temperature minus outside temperature (e.g. +20°C inside at -10°C outside = 30°C).
• Heat loss coefficient:
  • 1.5 - for well-insulated motorhomes (polyurethane foam, double glazing).
  • 2.0 - for standard thermal insulation (mineral wool, single-layer windows).
  • 2.5 - for poorly insulated vans (metal without insulation).

Example calculation for a motorhome with a volume 24 m³, temperature difference 30°C and standard thermal insulation:

Power = (24 × 30 × 2.0) / 860 ≈ 1.67 kW

In this case, a stove with a power of 2–3 kW (for example, Cubby Wood Stove or Kni-Co Treker).

⚠️ Attention: If you plan to use the oven for cooking, add 20–30% to the design power. The hob takes away some of the heat, and without a reserve the stove will not cope with heating.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a wood stove

Installing a stove in a motorhome is not only about attaching the body, but also about organizing chimney, thermal insulation and ventilation. Let's break down the process step by step.

1. Selecting an installation location

The optimal location of the stove is at the rear or side wall of the motorhome, at a distance of at least 30 cm from flammable materials. Please note:

• 📍 The oven must be on non-combustible base (sheet metal + ceramic tiles).
• 🪟 Avoid the area above the windows - the heat will go outside.
• 🚪 Do not install the stove against the door - when opened, the cold air will extinguish the fire.

2. Preparing the base

The floor under the stove must be able to withstand a load of up to 100 kg/m² and be protected from sparks. Sequence of work:

1. Cut a hole in the floor to fit the size of the stove (if it is built-in).
2. Place a layer basalt wool thick 2–3 cm.
3. Cover the base with a sheet stainless steel (thickness 1–1.5 mm) or porcelain stoneware.
4. Secure everything with self-tapping screws and heat-resistant washers.

3. Chimney installation

The chimney is the most critical element of the system. Errors during its installation lead to carbon monoxide entering the cabin or fires. Requirements:

• 🔥 Use double wall sandwich chimneys (for example, Schiedel or Selkirk) - they are safer than single-walled ones.
• 📏 The minimum height of the chimney above the roof is 50 cm.
• 🔄 Pipe inclination angle - no more 30° (optimally - vertical exit).
• 🧲 Required thermal insulation at the point of passage through the roof (use Master Flash or EPDM penetrations).

To seal joints, use heat resistant sealant (for example, Penosil Fireblock) and stainless steel clamps. Check the draft before the first ignition: bring a lit match to the open door - the flame should deflect into the stove.

Make sure there are no gaps between the pipe sections|Check the tightness of the passage through the roof|Assess the draft using a match or a smoke bomb|Remove the protective film from the inner surface of the pipe (if any)|Check the attachment of the chimney to the stove and roof-->

4. Organization of ventilation

A wood stove burns oxygen, so your motorhome must have supply and exhaust ventilation. Optimal solutions:

• 🪟 Supply valve (for example, Domvent) - installed in the lower part of the cabin, next to the stove.
• 💨 Exhaust fan on the roof (for example, Fiamma Turbo Vent) - removes excess moisture and gases.
• 🚪 Micro-ventilation through windows or a hatch - even in cold weather!

⚠️ Attention: Never sleep in a motorhome with the furnace running. completely closed windows and ventilation! Risk of carbon monoxide poisoning (CO) increases 10 times. Use CO sensor (for example, Kidde Nighthawk) - it will save lives in the event of a leak.

Fuel for a wood stove: what is better to choose

Not only heat transfer, but also chimney cleanliness, stove cleaning frequency and even the smell in the cabin. Let's figure out what can and cannot be burned in a camper stove.

✅ Permitted fuel types

• 🪵 Dry firewood (humidity up to 20%): birch, oak, beech - burn for a long time and give a lot of heat.
• 🧱 Fuel briquettes (for example, RUF or Pini-Kay): compact, burn evenly, little ash.
• 🌲 Spruce/pine wood: flares up quickly, but contains resin - clean the chimney more often.

❌ Prohibited fuels

• 🗑️ Household waste (plastic, cardboard, rubber) - emit toxic gases.
• 🌳 Wet firewood (humidity higher 25%) - reduce heat transfer and form condensation in the chimney.
• 🧹 Painted or treated wood (for example, old pallets) - when burned, they release toxic substances.

Critical: Never use in an RV oven. coal or coke! These fuels burn at higher temperatures than camper stoves are rated for and can warp the frame or chimney.

Fuel	Heat output (kWh/kg)	Burning time	Cons
Oak firewood	4.2	3–4 hours	It takes a long time to flare up, dear ones.
Birch firewood	4.0	2–3 hours	Burn out quickly, lots of sparks
Fuel briquettes	4.5	4–5 hours	More expensive than firewood, require dry storage
Pine/spruce	3.8	1.5–2 hours	Excessive resin formation

How to check the moisture content of firewood without a moisture meter?

When dry firewood hits each other, it produces a ringing sound and does not release moisture when cut. If the firewood is “sweaty” to the touch or hisses and smokes when burning, its humidity is above 25%. Such firewood needs to be dried for 2–3 months in a ventilated area.

Safety: 7 rules that will save your life

A wood stove in a motorhome is not only warm, but also potential fire or poisoning hazard. Follow these rules to avoid tragedy:

1. Install a carbon monoxide detector (CO) on top 1.5 m from the floor. even a small concentration (50 ppm) causes headache and nausea.
2. Use only certified ovens with markings CE or UL. Homemade structures often do not meet safety standards.
3. Check the chimney before every trip for soot, cracks or blockages (such as bird nests).
4. Do not leave the oven unattended for the night. If you need to maintain heat, use the smoldering mode with the damper slightly open.
5. Store firewood and fuel outside the cabin - in a special compartment or on the roof. This will reduce the risk of fire and free up space.
6. Have a fire extinguisher on hand class A (for solid combustible materials) and fiberglass blanket for extinguishing sparks.
7. Training for all passengers rules for using the stove. Children and pets should not be near an operating oven without supervision.

Maintenance and cleaning: how to extend the life of your oven

Regular stove and chimney maintenance not only improves heating efficiency, but also reduces the risk of fire. Create a check schedule:

element	Service frequency	What to do
Furnace firebox	After each use	Remove ash, wipe the walls with a damp cloth (after cooling)
Chimney	Every 2–3 months	Cleaning soot with a brush, checking the tightness of joints
Door glass	1 time per week	Cleaning with a special product (for example, Hansa) from soot
Door seal	1 time per season	Check for wear, replace if elasticity is lost
Ventilation	Every month	Checking the supply valve filters, cleaning them from dust

To clean the chimney use flexible brush with cargo (for example, Hansa Kaminofen-Bürste). If there is too much soot, use chemical cleaners (for example, Kominček) - they loosen deposits and are easier to remove mechanically.

⚠️ Attention: If you notice that the wood burns slower than usual and the flame has orange tint (instead of bright yellow), this is a sign blocked chimney. Stop heating immediately and clean the chimney!

FAQ: Answers to frequently asked questions

Can a wood stove be installed in a gas motorhome?

Yes, but with reservations. Gas cylinders must be stored in ventilated compartment outside the cabin, and have a stove sealed firebox with external air supply. The distance between the stove and the cylinder must be at least 1 m, or better yet, separated by a partition. In some countries (e.g. Norway) such combinations are prohibited by law - check local regulations.

Which chimney is better: single-wall or sandwich?

For motorhomes definitely a sandwich! Single-wall chimneys heat up to 300–400°C outside, which creates a risk of fire when passing through the roof or walls. Sandwich chimneys have double walls with insulation, so their outer surface remains cold (up to 50°C). This is safer and reduces condensation.

How much firewood does a motorhome need for winter?

Consumption depends on climate and interior volume. Average for a motorhome 20–25 m³ at temperature -10°C required:

• 🌲 Birch/oak: 15–20 kg/day (or 1.5–2 m³ for a month).
• 🧱 Briquettes: 10–15 kg/day (or 0.5–0.7 m³ for a month).

To save money use night smoldering mode (closed damper) and insulate the motorhome thermal curtains on the windows.

Is it possible to light the stove while driving?

Technically yes, but this extremely dangerous. Vibrations and tilting of the motorhome can lead to:

• Unstable firewood falling out of the firebox.
• Violation of the chimney seal (if the fastening is unreliable).
• Avoid contact of sparks with flammable materials.

If you need to keep warm, use smoldering mode with a minimum amount of firewood and necessarily close the blower damperso that the coals do not fly away.

How to avoid condensation in the chimney?

Condensation is formed due to the difference in temperature and humidity of the wood. To minimize it:

1. Use dry firewood (humidity up to 20%).
2. Warm up the chimney before the firebox by burning newspaper or wood chips within 5–10 minutes.
3. Insulate the chimney basalt wool (especially if it passes through a cold zone).
4. Leave after heating flap slightly open for 10–15 minutes for ventilation.

If condensation has already appeared, clean the chimney and dry it by flooding the stove small amount of firewood at maximum traction.