The change of seasons is not only a reason to update your wardrobe, but also a signal that your car needs special attention. Even if the car looks perfect and shows no signs of malfunction, seasonal maintenance (TO) - this is not a whim, but a necessity. Why? Because temperature changes, humidity, road salt and other factors gradually wear out parts that you cannot see.
Many drivers mistakenly think that it is enough to change the oil and tires and they can continue driving. In fact seasonal maintenance includes more than 15 critical checks, from the condition of the brake system to the tightness of the interior. Neglecting at least one point can result in a breakdown at the most inopportune moment: for example, a discharged battery at −20°C or an overheated engine in a traffic jam in the summer. In this article we will look at what exactly needs to be done before spring, summer, autumn and winter, which work can be done independently, and for which it is better to contact the service.
1. Changing oil and filters: why is this the basis of seasonal maintenance
Engine oil is like blood in the body: if it is old or of poor quality, the “heart” of the car (motor) begins to work intermittently. Seasonal oil change mandatory not only because of mileage, but also because of changes in viscosity with temperature changes. For example, winter oil with index 5W-30 in summer it may be too liquid, which will lead to increased wear of parts.
In addition to the oil, be sure to change:
- 🔧 Oil filter — a clogged filter does not clean the oil from metal shavings and dirt, which accelerates engine wear.
- 🚗 Air filter — a dirty filter reduces engine power by 5–10% and increases fuel consumption.
- ⚡ Fuel filter (for diesel cars - every 10-15 thousand km, for gasoline cars - less often, but at least once a year).
Important: if you use semi-synthetic oil, its service life is reduced by 20-30% at extreme temperatures (below −25°C or above +35°C). In such cases, it is better to switch to a fully synthetic oil with improved additives.
2. Checking the battery: how to avoid a “morning surprise” in winter
The battery is the most vulnerable element of a car when the seasons change. In summer it suffers from overheating, in winter from frost. A temperature drop to −10°C reduces battery capacity by 20–30%, and if the battery is old (more than 3-4 years), the risk of not starting in the morning increases significantly.
What to check:
- 🔋 Electrolyte level (for serviceable batteries) - should cover the plates by 10–15 mm.
- 🔌 Terminals - oxidation or poor contact increases resistance, which interferes with normal starting.
- 📊 Voltage - with the engine off there should be
12.6–12.7 V, when running -13.8–14.4 V.
If the battery is more than 4 years old, it is worth checking before winter load testing (in the service or using a portable tester). This will show how the battery behaves under load. For example, if the voltage drops below 9 V When the starter starts, it’s time to change the battery.
If the car sits idle for a long time (for example, at the dacha in winter), remove the negative terminal of the battery - this will slow down the self-discharge.
3. Tires and wheels: not only “change shoes”, but also check the geometry
Changing your tires is just the tip of the iceberg. Before the season you need:
- Check tire pressure (including spare tire!). In summer it should be 0.2–0.3 bar higher than recommended, in winter - strictly according to the manual.
- Inspect protector for the presence of cracks, hernias or foreign objects (nails, stones).
- Check wheel balancing — an imbalance of even 10 grams at a speed of 100 km/h creates vibration that hits the suspension.
Critical moment: if the tread depth of summer tires is less 1.6 mm, and winter - 4 mm, their operation is prohibited by traffic regulations (fine of 500 rubles or warning). But experts recommend changing summer tires already at 2–3 mm, and winter ones - at 5–6 mm, as adhesion deteriorates sharply.
| Season | Minimum Tread (mm) | Recommended Tread (mm) | Additional checks |
|---|---|---|---|
| Winter | 4 | 5–6 | Check studs (if any), pressure +0.2 bar |
| Summer | 1.6 | 2–3 | Balancing, inspection for hernias |
| Off-season | — | — | Checking disks for deformation, bearing play |
What happens if you drive on bald tires?
Deterioration in braking distance by 30–50%, risk of aquaplaning even in light rain, increased risk of puncture. In winter conditions, “bald” tires lose grip already at −5°C.
4. Brake system: why squeaking is not the main problem
Brakes are checked every 10 thousand km or before the season, even if there are no visible signs of wear. The danger is that the pads or discs may wear unevenly, and the brake fluid may lose properties over time.
What to do:
- 🛑 Check brake pad thickness (minimum
2–3 mmfor the front ones,1.5 mm- for the rear ones). - 🔄 Assess condition brake discs - deep grooves or “waves” on the surface indicate the need for replacement.
- 💧 Check brake fluid — it is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture), and after 2 years its properties deteriorate by 30–40%.
⚠️ Attention: If, after pressing the brake pedal, it “falls” or vibrates, this is a sign air entering the system or disc deformation. In this case, you need to urgently go to a service center - independent repairs here are dangerous!
☑️ Checking brakes before the season
5. Cooling system: why antifreeze needs to be changed even if it is “clean”
Antifreeze loses its anti-corrosion properties over time, and its freezing point rises. For example, coolant, which has served for 3 years, can freeze already at −15°C instead of the declared −40°C. This is fraught rupture of pipes or cylinder block.
What to do:
- 🔄 Change antifreeze every
2–3 years(or every 60 thousand km), even if it looks normal. - 🧪 Check antifreeze density hydrometer - it should be within
1.075–1.085 g/cm³. - 🚿 Flush the system when replacing fluid - especially if cheap antifreeze or water was previously used.
⚠️ Attention: Never add antifreeze of a different brand or color! Various additives can react, which will lead to the formation of sediment and blockage of the radiator channels.
6. Suspension and steering: how to recognize hidden problems
Potholes, rails, curbs - all this hits the suspension, and over time, even small play turns into serious damage. Before the season, be sure to check:
- 🔧 Shock absorbers - if after pressing the wing the car swings more than 1-2 times, it’s time to change them.
- 🔄 Ball joints and silent blocks — play or creaking when turning the steering wheel indicates wear.
- 🛞 Steering rods and ends - their malfunction is manifested by the car “walking” on the road.
A simple test for the condition of the suspension: accelerate to 60 km/h and brake hard. If the car nods or knocks are heard, there are problems with the shock absorbers or springs.
7. Electrics and lighting: why a burnt out light bulb is not a small thing
Before the season, check all the lamps (low/high beam, dimensions, brake lights, turn signals). The fine for a lamp not burning is 500 rubles., but this is not the main thing: poor lighting increases the risk of accidents in the dark by 40%.
Also pay attention to:
- 💡 Headlights — cloudy glass reduces light transmission by 50%. They can be polished or replaced.
- 🔌 Fuses - oxidized contacts can cause a short circuit.
- 📱 Electronics — check the operation of the sensors (ABS, ESP) if errors are displayed on the panel.
If the headlights or turn signals stop working after washing the car, water most likely got into the fuse box. Dry it immediately or you risk burning the electronics.
8. Interior and body: corrosion protection and comfort
The salon also requires preparation for the season:
- 🧹 Cleaning carpets and upholstery — in winter, salt and moisture destroy materials; in summer, dust clogs air ducts.
- 🪟 Checking door seals - if they are cracked, water and cold will penetrate into the interior.
- 🔥 Heated seats and windows — test it before winter, otherwise you risk freezing in traffic.
Critical for the body anti-corrosion treatment. In the fall, check out:
- 🚗 Bottom — chips and rust on it lead to through corrosion in 1–2 years.
- 🔧 Wheel arches — Dirt and salt accumulate here, which corrode the metal.
- 🔍 Drainage holes (in doors, thresholds) - if they are clogged, water will accumulate inside.
⚠️ Attention: If there are already saffron marks on the body, do not paint them with regular paint! Without treatment with a rust converter and primer, corrosion will continue to spread underneath the layer.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about seasonal maintenance
Is it necessary to do seasonal maintenance if the car is new (up to 3 years)?
Yes, even for new cars a seasonal inspection is required. Manufacturers recommend passing diagnostics every 15 thousand km or once a year, since rubber, fluids and some parts wear out regardless of mileage. For example, brake fluid absorbs moisture even if the car is parked in a garage.
Can I change the oil and filters myself?
Yes, if you have a viewing hole or a lift. The main thing is to choose the right oil (according to SAE and API), buy an original filter and do not forget to lubricate the O-ring before installation. But if you are not confident in your skills, it is better to entrust this to a service: an error when draining the oil (for example, an under-tightened bolt) can result in engine oil starvation.
How often should you check your battery?
Minimum 2 times a year - before winter and summer. The batteries of modern cars with a lot of electronics (cameras, sensors, multimedia) discharge faster. If the battery is older than 3 years, have it checked every month in the cold season.
What happens if you don't change the antifreeze?
Old antifreeze loses its anti-corrosion properties, which leads to:
- Destruction of aluminum parts (radiator, pump).
- Blockage of the cooling system channels with sediment.
- Engine overheating (risk of cylinder head deformation).
In critical cases, repairs will cost 50–100 thousand rubles..
Do I need to balance my wheels every season when I change my tires?
Yes, even if you install the same kit. When dismantling/mounting a tire alignment is disturbed, and the imbalance in 10–20 grams at a speed of 120 km/h it creates steering wheel wobble and accelerated wear of the suspension. Balancing is worth it 200–400 rub. per wheel, but saves thousands on repairs.