Beginner craftsmen often face a situation when the sewing machine begins to be capricious: skips stitches, tears the thread or leaves puffs on the fabric. In 90% of cases, the problem lies not in the breakdown of the mechanism, but in the wrongly selected consumables. The key parameter here is needle numberwhich indicates the thickness of its rod and edge.
Understanding the labeling allows you to avoid many mistakes when sewing various materials. The wrong choice of tool can lead to damage to expensive fabric or even damage to the shuttle assembly of your machine. That is why it is important to understand the numbering system adopted in the industry, and learn how to select a tool for a specific task.
In this article, we will take a closer look at the European and American labeling systems, and find out which needles are suitable for jeans and which are suitable for silk. You will learn to read the packaging and choose consumables that will provide the perfect line the first time.
Numbering systems: European and American
On the needle pack you will always find a double designation, for example, 80/12 or 90/14. This is not a random set of numbers, but a size indication in two different measurement systems that are used simultaneously for the convenience of users around the world.
The first number (e.g. 80) refers to European metric (NM). It denotes the diameter of the needle rod in millimeters, multiplied by 100. Thus, the needle number 80 has a diameter of 0.8 mm, and the needle number 100 - 1.0 mm. The larger the number, the thicker the rod.
The second number (for example, 12) is the size of the American (Singer system) Here the logic is reversed: the smaller the number, the thinner the needle. However, in double labeling, both numbers grow proportionally. For home sewing, the most commonly used sizes are 75/11 to 100/16.
- 📏 European number (NM) - shows the diameter of the rod in hundredths of a millimeter.
- The American number is a historical scale where smaller numbers mean smaller thicknesses.
- 🔄 Proportionality – both numbers on the package correspond to the same physical thickness of the needle.
⚠️ Note: Never ignore double marking. If you’re used to working with American magazines, look for the second number, but always check the first for accuracy.
Table of correspondence of needle numbers and tissue types
Choosing the right needle size depends on the density and structure of the tissue you plan to work with. Using a needle too thin for a dense material will lead to its breakage or deformation, and too thick for light fabric will simply punch a too large hole, spoiling the appearance of the product.
Below is a table that will help you quickly navigate the choice. Keep it on hand or keep it on hand while working in the workshop.
| Europe/USA | Diameter (mm) | tissue | Recommended thread |
|---|---|---|---|
| 60/8 | 0.60 | Thin silk, chiffon, organza | Lavsan 33, 50 |
| 70/10 | 0.70 | Cotton, fine wool, artificial silk | Lavsan 40, 50 |
| 80/12 | 0.80 | Tight cotton, linen, costume fabrics | Lavsan 40, 50 |
| 90/14 | 0.90 | Jeans, coat fabrics, drape | Lavsan 33, 40 |
| 100/16 | 1.00 | Tight jeans, leather, furniture fabric | Lausanne 33, reinforced |
Note that for knitted and elastic fabrics, not only the number, but also the number is more important. point-piece. For them, there are special needles (Stretch, Jersey) that have a rounded tip that runs between the fibers, rather than tearing them.
If you work with multi-layer structures or seals, it is better to choose a needle one size larger than recommended for the main fabric, but pre-test the stitch on the trim.
The effect of needle number on the quality of the line
Why is it so important to match the needle number and thread thickness? The fact is that the groove on the needle, in which the thread lies during the passage through the fabric, has a strictly defined depth. If the thread is thicker than the grooves allow, it does not have time to hide and rubs against the edges of the tissue, which leads to cliffs.
On the other hand, if you insert a needle that is too thin with a small ear for a thick thread, the latter will experience tremendous friction. This leads to heating of the needle, melting of synthetic threads and, as a result, to the passage of stitches or rupture.
The quality of the line also depends on the pressure of the foot and the speed of sewing, but it is precisely the tissue-needle-thread balance It's the foundation. The correct number provides:
- 🧵 The uniform tension of the upper and lower thread.
- ✨ No puffs and holes on the front side of the product.
- 🔇 The quiet operation of the mechanism without knocking and vibration.
When sewing with thick threads (decorative deflection), always increase the needle number, even if the fabric is not very dense. The eye should be able to pass the thread freely.
A common mistake is to try to penetrate a thick tissue with a thin needle, hoping for a "maybe." This is a direct path to the displacement of the shafts in the sewing machine. The mechanism is overloaded by trying to push a blunt instrument through the material.
Special needles and their marking
In addition to universal needles, which are suitable for most woven fabrics (not stretchable), there are specialized tools. Their number also indicates thickness, but the shape of the tip and groove is adapted for specific tasks.
For example, jeans needles (Jeans) have a sharper, stronger point and a stronger rod so as not to bend when firmware is tight. Skin needles (Skin needles)Leather) are equipped with a cutting edge at the tip that literally cuts through the material, making a neat opening.
The difference will be in the geometry of the tip, but the principle of selection by the thickness of the fabric remains unchanged.
Can I use a skin needle on ordinary fabric?
Technically possible, but not recommended. The cutting tip will tear the fibers of natural fabrics, leaving visible damage and weakening the seam. Use them only as intended.
To work with elastic materials (stretch, biflex, rubber) needles with marking are used. Stretch or Jersey. They have a special depression in the groove for better capture of the thread by the shuttle, which prevents the passage of stitches on the looping fabrics.
How often should I change the needle?
Many users forget that the needle is an expendable material. Even the highest quality steel eventually becomes dull, microscopic serrated and hooks appear on it. The work of a dulled needle leads to the destruction of the fabric structure and poor quality of the seam.
There is a rule: one needle, one project. If you are sewing a large product, such as a coat or curtains, it is best to start with a new needle. For industrial volumes, the needle is changed every 8 hours, but at home it is enough to do this after each large project or every 10-15 hours of clean sewing.
☑️ Signs that it is time to change the needle
Replacement is also mandatory if you accidentally hit a pin, zipper or button with a needle. A hit on metal is guaranteed to deform the tip, even if it is not visible to the eye. The needle is risky for your car.
⚠️ WARNING: If you feel resistance when you scroll the flywheel manually or hear a pin-point thud against a needle plate, stop immediately. Most likely, the needle is bent, and its use can lead to the breakage of the shuttle.
Practical advice on installation and selection
When installing a needle in a machine, it is important not only to choose the right number, but also to fix it correctly. The rod must be inserted to the point in the needle holder. On most modern machines, the flat side of the tail (baldness) should look in a certain direction (usually backwards or to the right, depending on the model).
Always loosen the needle holder screw before insertion and tightly twist it after. A loosely fixed needle will strike the paw or plate, which will lead to the breakdown of both elements.
When buying needles, give preference to proven brands, such as: Schmetz, Organ or Janome. Cheap Chinese counterparts often have a mismatch with the declared number: the needle number 80 can be thinner or thicker than the standard, which knocks the machine settings.
The golden rule of seamstresses: If you doubt between two adjacent numbers (such as 80 and 90) for medium-density fabric, start with the smaller one (80). If you have a pass, replace it with a larger one.
Store spare needles in original plastic cases. This will protect their tip from becoming blunted by accidental fall or contact with other metal objects in the sewing box.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What happens if you sew a jean with a needle number 70?
Needle 70 is too thin for a thick denim fabric. It is likely to break at the first puncture or bend. If it does not break immediately, it will leave stitches missing, tear the thread and deform the fabric around the seam due to excessive pressure of the thin rod.
What is the difference between 90/14 and 100/16 needles?
The difference is 0.1 mm in diameter of the rod (0.9 mm vs. 1.0 mm). The 100/16 needle is designed for tighter and rougher materials, such as heavy jeans, leather or furniture fabrics. The 90/14 needle is versatile for medium and dense fabrics, including regular jeans and costume cloth.
Can a large numbered needle be used for thin fabric?
Technically, the machine will be sewing, but the quality will suffer. The needle will leave noticeable holes on the thin fabric (chiffon, bathiste), which may not overgrow even after washing. In addition, there is a high risk of formation of "looping" from the bottom of the tissue due to a violation of the balance of tension of the threads.
Why do they write two numbers on needles?
Two numbers (e.g. 80/12) are used for the convenience of users from different countries. The first number (80) is a metric system (European) showing a diameter in millimeters. The second (12) is the American numbering system. Both refer to the same needle.
How do you know if the needle is not installed correctly?
If you install it incorrectly (the wrong side), the machine will start to pass stitches, the needle will be heard knocking on the foot or plate, and the thread will constantly break. In modern electronically controlled machines, an error may catch fire or the machine will refuse to puncture.