The appearance of the first red spots on the mats or the bloating of paint on the doorsteps is an alarm for any car owner. The interior of the car is subject to corrosion no less than the bottom, and sometimes more due to the constant accumulation of moisture, reagents and dirt. If you ignore the problem at an early stage, after a few years you can encounter through holes in the floor and a violation of the tightness of the body, which will lead to expensive repairs.
The question of how to treat the car from corrosion inside the cabin requires an integrated approach, since standard methods for external elements may not be suitable here or even harmful. In an enclosed space, it is important to use compounds that do not emit toxic vapors after drying and have high adhesion to the metal in conditions of high humidity. The right choice of chemistry and surface preparation is the key to the fact that the car will last for many years without rotting.
Causes of corrosion in the car interior
The main catalyst for the destruction of metal inside the machine is moisture combined with oxygen. The snow melting on passengers’ shoes and mats creates an ideal environment for oxidation. Especially affected areas under the feet of the driver and passengers, where rubber mats often do not fit tightly, and the water stagnates under them, unable to evaporate.
Another factor is becoming invasiveThe roads are handled by the utilities in winter. Once on carpet and metal, salt and chemicals begin to erode the paint coating and protective layer of zinc. When combined with mechanical damage, such as scratches from heels or fallen objects, this process is accelerated many times over.
We should not forget about condensate, which is formed due to temperature changes. If the ventilation is disturbed in the cabin or drainage holes are clogged (for example, under the glove compartment or in the niche of the battery), water begins to accumulate in the hidden cavities. This is where it most often starts. corrosionIt is difficult to see before the openings.
Owners of cars with a climate system should monitor the condition of the air conditioner drainage. A clogged condensate drain tube can lead to flooding of the floor from the passenger side, which will instantly start the process of rotting metal under noise insulation.
⚠️ Attention: If you feel a persistent smell of dampness in the cabin even in dry weather, this is a sure sign that water has accumulated somewhere in the body structure. Do not delay the diagnosis, as wet carpet is a direct path to rust of the floor.
Necessary tools and surface preparation
Before applying any protective agent, it is necessary to carefully prepare the surface. The quality of the preparation is 80% of the success of the whole operation. You will need to remove the seats, dismantle the central tunnel and completely remove the carpeting to access the metal floor.
For mechanical cleaning of rust, the following tools will be needed:
- 🛠️ Corner grinder (Bulgar) with a petal circle or brush-short for removal of large foci of corrosion.
- 🧽 Sandpaper of various grains (from P60 to P240) for cleaning hard-to-reach places.
- 🔧 Metal brushes and scrapers to remove loose rust at corners and joints.
- 🧴 A degreasing agent (antisilicone or white spirit) to clean the metal before applying the chemical.
After mechanical cleaning, it is important to make sure that there is no dust and fat spots left on the metal. Degreasing is a critical step, as most rust converters and anticores fall poorly on a greasy surface. Use lilaless wipes and change them often so as not to smear the dirt.
☑️ Preparation of the salon for anticory
If corrosion has already eaten through the metal, a simple sweep will not be enough. In such cases, it may be necessary ferro-welding Or installing repair patches. However, for most cases, when the rust is superficial, high-quality cleaning and treatment with chemical compositions is enough.
Review of rust treatment facilities
The autochemistry market offers many solutions, and the choice depends on the degree of damage to the metal and the desired result. All funds can be divided into several categories: rust converters, soil modifiers and finishing anticorrosion coatings.
Rust converters - these are chemical compositions based on orthophosphoric acid or tannins. They convert iron oxide into a stable compound that stops further destruction. Such tools are ideal for processing hard-to-reach places where it is impossible to completely clean the metal to shine. Popular brands include Hi-Gear, Felix and ASTROhim.
For more serious work, they are used soil. Zinc creates a galvanic pair with iron, protecting it even in the presence of small scratches (cathode protection). These formulations require application in several layers and often need subsequent painting or overlapping with anticor.
The final step is to apply corrosion-proof Or wax compounds. Oily anticores (for example, based on lanolin) have the property of self-tightening and penetrate into microcracks, displacing moisture. Hardening mastics (bitumen or rubber) create strong mechanical protection, but are less elastic in vibration.
The WD-40 Myth
Many people believe that WD-40 protects against rust. It is actually a great water repellent and solvent, but it evaporates quickly and does not create a long-term protective film. Use special anticores for long-term protection.
Technology of treatment of floor and hidden cavities
The processing process begins with the application of a rust converter to the cleaned areas. If you use a liquid composition, it can be applied with a brush or sprayer. It is important to give the chemistry to work out the time specified by the manufacturer (usually 15-30 minutes), after which the surface should turn black or matte.
For hidden cavities such as sparrows and niches under the rapids, aerosol anticores with a long spray tube are best suited. They create a fog that settles on the walls of the cavity, providing a uniform coating. An example may be Movieville or modern analogues on a wax basis.
On the open areas of the floor, after drying the converter and primer, the finish layer of protection is applied. If you plan to return the carpet to its place, it is better to use clear or light compositions that do not stain the fabric and do not have a sharp smell. Dark bitumen mastics here will be superfluous and can create problems with purity.
⚠️ Warning: When working with aerosols and chemical converters in a confined cabin space, be sure to use a respirator and ensure the flow of fresh air. Solvent vapors can be toxic and flammable.
Pay special attention to the places of attachment of seats and seat belts. Often it is around the bolts that point corrosion begins. Unscrew the fastener, treat the holes and bolts themselves with zinc-containing soil before assembly.
Comparative table of popular means
To make it easier for you to navigate the variety of products, we have prepared a comparative table of the main types of products available on the market.
| Type of instrument | Examples of brands | Application | Term of protection |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rust converter | Hi-Gear, Permatex | Removal of oxides, preparation for painting | Up to 2 years (as a basis) |
| Zinc soil | Body 999, Kerry | Anti-corrosion protection of metal | 5-7 years |
| Wax anticor (spray) | Dinitrol, Noxudol | Hidden cavities, arches | 3-5 years |
| Oil-eating | Moville, Liqui Moly | Penetrating protection, displacement of moisture | 1-2 years (requires an update) |
When choosing a specific product, always pay attention to the manufacturer's instructions. Some compositions require mandatory staining from above, others are an independent finishing surface. Failure to comply with the technology can nullify all efforts.
For maximum efficiency, combine the means: rust converter for cleaning, zinc soil for protection and wax anticor for sealing. This “pie” provides the best result.
Common errors in anticorrosion treatment
The most common mistake is applying anticores to a wet or poorly cleaned surface. In this case, you simply preserve water and dirt under a layer of protection, and the process of decay will continue with a vengeance, but already imperceptible to the eye.
The second mistake is the use of inappropriate materials. For example, the application of bitumen mastic inside the cabin will lead to the fact that in hot weather it can swim or long exude an unpleasant smell. For the interior, only special compositions with low volatility are suitable.
The third mistake is ignoring the drainage holes. After treating the floor with anticory, do not forget to clean the drainage, otherwise new moisture will accumulate on top of your protective layer, and over time it will begin to peel off.
You should also not save on drying time. If you apply the second layer on the undried first, inside there will be a solvent, which over time can cause swelling of the coating and loss of protective properties.
Prevention and care of treated surfaces
After the work on corrosion elimination is important