The high-quality installation of window deflectors, or so-called windbreakers, directly depends on the preparation of the surface. Many car owners make the mistake of believing that it is enough to simply wipe the installation site with a wet wipe, but this is categorically not enough. On the body of the car there are always invisible to the eye pollution: remnants of car wax, silicone polishes, road bitumen spots and fat deposits from exhaust gases.
It is these microscopic films that do not give the adhesive layer. double-scotch securely grip with metal or plastic door frames. If you ignore the stage of deep cleaning, then after a couple of weeks or even days, the deflector can simply fall off on the move or start rattling, letting water inside the cabin. Well-chosen fattener dissolves fats, leaving the surface chemically clean and ready for adhesion.
In this article, we will discuss which chemical compositions are really effective, and which ones are better to refrain from, so as not to damage the paint coating of your car. We will look at both professional autochemistry and affordable household analogues that can be found in any garage.
Why a regular wash is not enough for installation
Even if you just arrived with an automatic wash, the surface of the body is not ready for gluing additional elements. Water washes away visible dirt, dust and sand, but it is not able to dissolve hydrophobic films, which are often applied to the body for shine. Polished and waxThe stains contained in shampoos and quick drying products create a thin layer that repels water, but in the same way it repels the adhesive composition of acrylic tape.
In addition, in the atmospheric air contains a huge amount of oils and combustion products of fuel, which are deposited on the body with a thin film. This is especially true for the upper part of the doors and roof, where windbreakers are most often installed. Without removing this layer, any glue will not keep on the body, but on the layer of fat, which guarantees the fragility of the installation.
⚠️ Warning: Attempting to glue the deflector to an unwashed surface will cause the scotch to move away with the pieces of wax, leaving sticky traces that will then be very difficult to remove.
For reliable fixation, it is necessary to use chemically active solvents that can break down organic fat compounds. It is important to understand that the process of degreasing is not just “wipe with a cloth”, it is a chemical reaction of dissolving contaminants. After such treatment, the surface becomes matte in appearance (if viewed from an angle) and absolutely dry to the touch.
The best professional means for body preparation
If you want to be 100% sure of the result, it is best to use specialized autochemistry. These products are designed specifically for paint coatings (LACs) and are guaranteed not to damage the paint, even if it is sensitive to aggressive solvents. The leader in this category is antisilicone (degreasing)
Antisilicone is a mixture of organic solvents that evaporates quickly and leaves no swelling. It is ideal for preparing the surface before the sticker. denifier, moldings or spoilers. The tool not only removes fat, but also displaces moisture from microcracks, which is critical for the durability of the adhesive compound.
The second excellent option is bitumen-spot cleaners. Although their main function is to remove tar, they do a great job with any oil products and fat films. The main advantage of such cleaners is that they often contain soft surfactants, which further clean the surface.
- 🚗 Antisilicone A universal remedy, safe for all types of LCD and plastic, dries quickly.
- 🛢️ Bitumen cleaner - powerful chemistry for complex contaminants, requires caution with rubber seals.
- 🧪 Specialized Adhesive Primer - applied after a degreaser to strengthen the adhesion of scotch (often comes complete with expensive deflectors).
The use of professional chemistry requires compliance with the instructions. Usually, it is enough to apply the product to a lilaless napkin, wipe the surface and let it dry for 30-60 seconds. Do not rub too hard so as not to scratch the varnish with sand if it remains after washing.
Buy antisilicone in an aerosol balloon or a plastic bottle of 0.5 liters - this is enough to install deflectors for the entire car and still remain for other needs.
Budgetary analogues: what can be found in the garage
Professional autochemistry is not always at hand, and in such cases many turn to household solvents. However, here you need to be extremely careful, since the aggressiveness of household chemicals can be too high for modern automotive varnish. The most popular, but controversial, option is White Spirit.
White Spirit is a product of distillation of oil and dissolves fats well. Its main advantage is low cost and availability. However, it dries longer than professional products, and can leave a greasy film if the product is poor quality. You can use it, but only making sure that after wiping the surface is completely dried and has no oily coating.
Gasoline "Kalosha" (nephras) is another popular option. It acts softer than regular gasoline and evaporates almost without a trace. This is an excellent tool for removing silicones and oils. It is important to use only refined gasoline, as impurities can leave a scotch that will worsen the adhesion of scotch.
⚠️ Note: It is strictly forbidden to use acetone, solvent, 646th solvent or gasoline from a gas station for degreasing the LCP! They can dissolve the varnish instantly, leaving matte spots that can only be removed by polishing or repainting.
Isopropyl alcohol is a relatively safe option that is often used in electronics. It is good at defatting, but less effective against heavy silicone polyroles. It can be used as a finishing agent after the main cleaning to remove the residues of the solvent.
Comparative table of degreasing products
To make it easier for you to choose the right tool, we have prepared a comparative analysis of popular options. Pay attention to the compatibility with paintwork and effectiveness against various types of contaminants.
| Remedy. | Aggressiveness towards LCP | Effectiveness against fat | Drying speed |
|---|---|---|---|
| Antisilicone | Safe. | Tall. | Very quickly. |
| White Spirit | Conditionally secure. | Medium | Slowly. |
| Kalosha petrol | Safe. | Tall. | Quickly. |
| Isopropyl alcohol | Safe. | Medium | Instantly. |
| Acetone / 646 | Dangerous (eating) | Very high. | Instantly. |
As you can see from the table, silicone and Kalosha gasoline It is the best balance between safety and efficiency. They are guaranteed to remove contamination without harming the body during short-term contact.
What if the solvent still hit the rubber seal?
The rubber can swell or become sticky. Immediately rinse the seal with plenty of soapy water and wipe dry. If the rubber has become sticky, you can treat it with talc or silicone lubricant after completely drying.
Proper degreasing technology
The process of surface preparation requires compliance with a certain sequence of actions. Breaking the technology can nullify all efforts, even if you’ve used the most expensive remedy. First, the car must be washed with shampoo to remove abrasive dust. If you start degreasing a dirty machine, you will simply rub the sand on the varnish, leaving scratches.
After washing and drying the body should be absolutely clean. Take a clean, lilaless rag (microfibre or a special napkin for glasses). Wet the fabric with a selected degreaser. Do not pour liquid directly on the body, especially if it is an aggressive solvent, it is better to apply it to a cloth.
Intensive circular movements wipe the installation site wind-breaker. Movements should be directed from the center to the edges so as not to smear the dirt back. After that, take a second, dry and clean napkin, and dry wipe the surface, removing the remains of dissolved fat and the remedy itself.
☑️ Checklist of preparations
Important point: after degreasing forbidden Touch the prepared surface with your fingers. There is always a natural fat layer on the skin of a person, and one touch will negate all work. If you accidentally touched the gluing site, the degreasing procedure should be repeated.
Frequent errors and temperature conditions
One of the most common mistakes is to ignore the ambient temperature. The adhesive layer of acrylic tape, which is equipped with deflectors, is sensitive to temperature. The optimal range for the sticker is from +10 ° C to +25 ° C. If it is cold outside, the glue will be too hard and will not have time to "grab" before you release the press.
In the cold season, many try to warm up the place of gluing with a hairdryer. This is acceptable, but you need to be careful: overheating the varnish can lead to its damage. In addition, if you degrease the surface in the cold, the solvent may not have time to completely evaporate and freeze in the micropores, which will worsen adhesion.
⚠️ Warning: Never put windbreakers in the rain or immediately after washing unless the body warms up to ambient temperature. Condensation on the surface, which you can't even see, will prevent the scotch from sticking.
It is also often a mistake to use dirty rags. The rags that were wiped off the wheels or lower sills may contain abrasive dust. Use only new or perfectly clean materials to complete contact area preparation.
The success of installing deflectors depends on the quality of degreasing by 90%. Savings at this stage or using inappropriate chemicals (like acetone) will result in the elements peeling off and potentially damaging the paint.
FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use vodka or alcohol for degreasing?
Vodka is not recommended, as it contains about 60% water and various additives. Water will interfere with the clutch, and additives may leave the film behind. Pure isopropyl alcohol can be used, it is safe for LCP, but it dissolves old polyroles and bitumen worse than specialized means.
Do I need to warm up the scotch before the sticker?
Yes, if the air temperature is below +15 ° C, it is recommended to warm up the adhesive side of the deflector and the body itself with a building hair dryer to a temperature of about +40 ... + 50 ° C. This activates the adhesive layer and provides instant fixation.
How long can I wash my car after installing windbreakers?
Complete polymerization of the adhesive takes 24 to 72 hours depending on the air temperature. In the first day, it is advisable not to wet the gluing zone. Full washing under pressure is allowed no earlier than 2-3 days after installation.
What if the deflector is still unstuck?
It is necessary to completely remove the old tape (using heating and thread), thoroughly degrease the surface again and paste a new layer of quality 3M tape (VHB series or automotive grade). Reuse of old scotch is not possible.