Owners of SUVs and pickups often face a dilemma: how to protect the body from gravel and corrosion, while maintaining the aesthetic appearance of the car. The answer for thousands of motorists has become a popular protective coating Dinitrol 479It is known popularly as the Raptor. However, the standard color scheme is limited to several basic shades, which does not always allow you to get into the body color or implement a unique design project. That is why the question of what can be chanted Raptor, becomes critical at the planning stage.
The process of changing the color of this material requires a deep understanding of the chemical composition of the base. This is not a common nitro paint that can be mixed with any solvent. Polyurethane base It dictates the strict rules of the game: the use of inappropriate components can lead to a complete loss of adhesion, a change in the structure of the “shagrene” surface, or even the impossibility of polymerization of the composition. Mistakes are expensive here, as removing the poor-quality layer is a time-consuming process.
In this article, we will discuss in detail the compatible types of colorers, permissible pigment concentrations and mixing technologies. You will know which solvents are safe for the base, and which will irrevocably spoil the material. We will consider both factory solutions from the manufacturer and the experience of professional colorists working with automotive enamels. The right approach will allow you to get a long-lasting coating of the desired shade without compromising on strength.
Chemical basis of coating and requirements for color
To understand how to safely dilute or color the composition, you need to refer to its chemical nature. Dinitrol 479 It is a two-component system based on aliphatic polyurethane. Unlike acrylic or alkyd paints, polyurethanes have high chemical resistance and elasticity after drying. This means that any added components must be chemically inert with respect to the hardener isocyanate groups. The use of aggressive chemistry can destroy the chains of polymers even at the mixing stage.
The main enemy of polyurethane systems is moisture and alcohols. Therefore, it is strictly forbidden to use water-soluble pigments or alcohol-based colorings. Water reacts with the isocyanate, causing foaming of mass and loss of adhesion, and alcohols can slow down or completely stop the curing process. The perfect koller must be concentrated, free of volatile solvents which would disturb the balance of volatile substances in the final mixture.
The best compatibility is demonstrated by pigment pastes developed specifically for polyurethane and epoxy systems. They have a high dispersion of particles, which allows them to be evenly distributed in the viscous base of Raptor without the formation of lumps. It is also important to consider that Raptor itself already contains texture additives (granules), creating the effect of "shagrene skin". Excessive introduction of liquid dyes can change the viscosity of the composition, which will lead to the drainage of the material from vertical surfaces or, conversely, to a too rough structure.
⚠️ Warning: Never use acetone or solvent 646 in large quantities to thin the color. Aggressive ketones can cause instant coagulation of polyurethane, turning the mixture into an unusable mass right in the bucket.
Compatible types of pigments and dyes
The autochemistry market offers several ways to solve the tinting problem. The most reliable, but also the most expensive option is the use of original coloring sets from the manufacturer. U-Pol. However, for those looking for alternatives or wanting to save money, there are proven analogues. The key factor here is the type of binder in the pigment paste. For Raptor suitable pigments based on complex polyesters and polyurethane resins.
Professional colorists often use universal pigment pastes to color automotive enamels, but with an important caveat: they must be designed for solvent (non-water) systems. Such pastes are usually labeled "for acrylic and polyurethane varnishes." They provide high cover and color stability.
Special attention should be paid to powder pigments such as "metallic", "pearl" or "chameleon". They can be added to the composition, but the introduction technology is different from liquid colorers. Metallic particles are heavier than the base and can settle at the bottom, so the mixture requires more frequent stirring during the application process. To obtain the effect of "metallic" in Raptor often use aluminum powder, specially processed for polyurethanes.
- 🎨 Original U-Pol Colors: Guaranteed chemical compatibility, stable color, but high cost and limited choice of shades.
- 🧪 Universal pigment pastes: Available in auto-ename shops, suitable for polyurethanes, a wide range of colors, require careful selection of proportions.
- ✨ Powder pigments (metallic): They give the effect of glow and depth, but may require finishing varnishing to reveal the effect and protect against oxidation.
- 🚫 Water-soluble dyes: Categorically not suitable, cause stratification of the composition and loss of protective properties.
When choosing a pigment, you should focus on its concentration. Highly concentrated pastes allow you to introduce less foreign liquid into the composition of Raptor, which retains its physical properties. If you use liquid auto-enamel (for example, the one left over from the body painting) for coloring, make sure it is two-component and has a similar chemical basis. Mixing single-component nitro paints with a two-component Raptor is a lottery with unpredictable results.
Mixing technology and proportions of components
The Raptor coloring process requires accuracy and consistency of actions. Violation of the mixing technology can lead to uneven color or defects on the surface. The basic rule is that all liquid components are mixed first, and only then a hardener is added. This is because once the catalyst is injected, an irreversible chemical polymerization reaction is triggered and you will have a limited time (usually about an hour) to work with the material.
The optimal amount of added pigment should not exceed 10% of the base volume. Exceeding this threshold is fraught with a change in the mechanical properties of the coating: it can become too brittle or, conversely, too soft and sticky. For a standard set of 4 liters of base (2 cans of 2 liters), 100-200 ml of concentrated color is usually enough to obtain a rich color. If you plan to drastically change the color (for example, to make black white), the amount of pigment may need more, but then a consultation with a technologist is recommended.
Use a measuring glass with divisions for accurate dosing of the color. It is almost impossible to determine 5-10% in the viscous mass on the eye, and an error in proportions will affect the result.
The technological process is as follows. Pour the required amount of Raptor base into a clean container. Add the selected color or pigment paste. Thoroughly mix the mixture with a drill with a mixer nozzle at low revs for 3-5 minutes. It is important not to create air bubbles, although the Raptor forms a texture, excessive aeration of mass is undesirable. After obtaining a uniform color, add the hardener in the strict proportion specified by the manufacturer (usually 250 ml per 750 ml base), and mix again.
There is a nuance when using powder pigments. They are better to pre-wipe in a small amount of the base to a state of thick gruel, and only then introduce this gruel into the main volume. This will help to avoid clumping metal shavings or mica. After mixing with the hardener, the mixture should be used for 60 minutes at a temperature of +20 °C. At higher temperatures, the life time of the mixture is reduced.
Use of solvents for adjusting viscosity
Often there is a need not only to change the color, but also to adjust the viscosity of the composition, especially if the coloring was made with a thick paste or if the work takes place at low temperatures. It is critical to choose the right solvent. As mentioned, standard aggressive solvents can be dangerous. The manufacturer recommends that the xylene or a specialized solvent for polyurethane coatings.
Adding a solvent makes the texture of the “shagrene” skin smaller and smoother. If you apply Raptor without dilution, the grain will be large and coarse. Adding 5-10% xylene makes the surface feel more pleasing to the touch and visually less “grainy.” However, it is not worth getting carried away with this: an excess of solvent will lead to an increase in drying time and the possible formation of flows on vertical planes.
Solvents containing alcohols or water should not be used. You should also be cautious about the solvent and white spirit. White spirit can be used in extreme cases to wash the tool, but to dilute the composition itself it is not suitable because of the long evaporation time, which can leave stickiness on the surface even after drying.
| Type of additive | Compatibility | Recommended percentage | Effects on properties |
|---|---|---|---|
| The original U-Pol koller | Complete. | 10% | It doesn't affect strength. |
| Pigment paste (polyurethane) | Tall. | 10% | Minimum impact |
| xylene | Permissible. | Max. 10% | Reduces graininess |
| Acetone / 646 | Low/Dangerous | Not recommended | Risk of clotting mass |
| Water dyes | Incompatible. | 0% | Loss of adhesion and foaming |
The golden rule of coloring: the total amount of all additives (color + solvent) should not exceed 10-15% of the volume of the base, so as not to disturb the balance of polymerization.
Features of applying a tinted coating
The application of tinted Raptor has its own characteristics in comparison with the application of a standard black or gray composition. First, the altered viscosity (if you added a solvent) requires an adjustment to the pressure on the spray gun. The optimum pressure is 3-4 atmospheres. If the mixture has become thinner, the pressure can be slightly reduced to avoid fog and overconsumption of the material.
Secondly, tinted surfaces can exhibit different defects in preparation. Light colors (white, beige, yellow) are more demanding on the purity of the surface and the quality of degreasing. Any dust that gets on the sticky layer will be noticeable immediately. Dark tones (black, blue, green) are better at hiding small irregularities, but scratches and dust are more visible on them if the texture is not sufficiently pronounced.
☑️ Control before painting
The technique of application remains the same: "wet wet" in 2-3 layers. However, when using metallized pigments, the last layer can be applied more carefully, from a slightly greater distance, so that the metal particles lie flat and give a shine. Do not overstay the interval for more than 24 hours, otherwise grinding will be required to adhesion the next layer.
After applying the tinted coating, it is recommended to allow it to dry in a warm room for at least 24 hours before the appearance of primary strength. Complete polymerization and final chemical resistance are achieved after 7 days. During this period, it is not recommended to wash the car with aggressive chemistry or expose the body to strong mechanical loads.
Common Errors and How to Resolve Them
Even experienced craftsmen can make mistakes when working with tinted polyurethane compounds. One of the most common problems is the change in shade after drying. The raptor dries to form a matte, rough surface that scatters light. Therefore, a wet sample in a jar always looks brighter and darker than the dried surface on the body. To avoid disappointment, be sure to make the paints on a metal plate and dry them with a hair dryer to assess the real color.
Another common mistake is to “boil” the mixture in the gun. This happens if you add too much hardener or work in a hot room. The reaction accelerates, and the mixture hardens directly in the nozzle. The solution: use less mixture in the gun tank, wash the tool more often with solvent and, if possible, work in a cool room.
⚠️ Warning: If you notice that the mixture in the bucket began to heat up and thicken faster than usual, stop working immediately and dispose of the bucket. Attempts to dilute the “boiling” Raptor with a solvent are useless and dangerous.
Adhesion problems (painting with stockings) are most often associated with poor degreasing or using an inappropriate color (for example, oil-based). If peeling has occurred, the way to correct the situation is to completely remove the coating mechanically (sandjet or hard brush) and repeat the cycle of preparation and application with compliance with technology.
FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a regular car spray paint to smear Raptor?
Technically, you can mix, but the result is unpredictable. Conventional aerosol paints are often nitro- or acrylic single-component materials. When mixed with two-component Raptor polyurethane, they may not react, remain sticky, or peel off. If you really want to use a specific color, it is better to buy a jar of the same enamel in the color store (bottling) and check its chemical basis - it should be polyurethane (2K).
How to get white color if the black Raptor took 4 liters?
It is impossible to repaint the black Raptor in white with the addition of pigment. The black pigment is too strong. To get white, you need to buy a white base (if available from the manufacturer) or use a special white pigment paste of high concentration, but even then the shade can go gray. To obtain pure white color often requires the application of 4-5 layers, which is economically impractical. It is easier to buy a ready-made set of white color.
Do I need to varnish the corrugated Raptor?
Raptor itself does not require varnishing, it is the finishing surface. However, if you used powder pigments (“metallic”, “pearl”), then without the varnish, the metallization effect will not be visible – the surface will be simply matte gray with interspersed spots. To reveal the effect of "metallic" Raptor must polish 2K acrylic varnish after complete polymerization.
How long does the cocked composition dry?
The drying time depends on the temperature and the amount of added color/solvent. Usually, the Raptor dries 30-60 minutes. Complete drying to lip - 6-12 hours. Operating load is possible in 24 hours. Adding a large amount of liquid color can increase drying time by 20-30%.