Installing a water purification system based on a reverse osmosis membrane is one of the most effective ways to obtain high-quality drinking water. Filter owners Atoll often face the need to independently install or maintain equipment, which requires a clear understanding of the connection diagram. Proper assembly guarantees not only the purity of the water, but also the durability of expensive elements such as the membrane element and automatic valve.
The installation process may seem complicated only at first glance, but with basic tools and careful study of the instructions, it becomes quite accessible for a home craftsman. The key point is to follow the sequence of connecting the tubes and the correct positioning of the filter housing relative to the storage tank. Any error in the hydraulic circuit can lead to overflow of the drainage or, conversely, to a lack of water in the tap.
In this article we will look in detail at what it looks like connection diagram for various modifications of systems, including models with a pump and mineralizer. We will pay special attention to the color marking of the tubes, since it is this that serves as the main guide during assembly. Carefully following the algorithm of actions will allow you to avoid common mistakes and enjoy clean water immediately after starting the system.
Equipment and preparation for installation
Before starting any work, you must ensure that all components included in the package are present. Standard system Atoll usually includes three pre-filters (mechanical, carbon, post-carbon), a housing with a membrane, a storage tank, a drinking tap and a set of connecting pipes. The absence of any element can stop the installation, so checking the contents of the box is the first and mandatory step.
It is important to choose a place to place the equipment in advance. It should be located in an easily accessible place, protected from direct sunlight and freezing. Temperature operation is usually from +4 to +40 degrees Celsius, which makes installation under the kitchen sink the most common solution. Make sure there is a free outlet nearby if your model has a booster pump.
- 🔧 Check that all keys, fittings and O-rings are included.
- 📏 Measure the free space under the sink to accommodate the tank and filter flasks.
- 💧 Make sure that the pressure in the water supply meets the requirements (usually 2.8–6.0 atm).
Don't forget to turn off the water supply before starting work. This is a basic safety rule that is often ignored, leading to kitchen flooding. If you are installing the system for the first time, it is recommended to prepare a container to drain any remaining water from the pipes and have a few dry rags on hand.
⚠️ Attention: Before drilling holes in a sink or countertop, make sure there are no electrical cables or other utilities running underneath. A mistake can cost expensive repairs.
Assembly and installation of filter modules
Assembling filter housings requires care and cleanliness. The inner surface of the flasks and lids must be absolutely clean, free of dust and lint. Before installing cartridges, it is recommended to rinse them with running water, if allowed by the manufacturer's instructions, to remove carbon dust from new blocks.
Installation of cartridges into housings is carried out in a strict sequence indicated on the covers or in the product passport. Usually the first step is mechanical cleaning (PP5), the second is a carbon filter (CTO), the third is fine mechanics (PP1), and the fourth housing is occupied by a membrane. The fifth post-filter (T33) is installed after the storage tank, in front of the tap.
When tightening the flask lids, it is important not to overtighten them with a wrench, so as not to damage the threads or O-rings. The threads can be lightly lubricated with silicone grease to facilitate future maintenance. Each cartridge must fit tightly into place, without distortion, ensuring the tightness of the system.
☑️ Checking module assembly
Particular attention should be paid to the membrane element. It is installed in a special housing, which is often labeled as RO. When installing the membrane, it is important not to confuse the side with the sealing rings and the purified water outlet side. Atoll produces reliable housings, but the human factor during assembly remains the main cause of leaks.
Installation of a drinking tap and storage tank
Installing a drinking tap is one of the most visible stages of installation. The faucet is attached directly to the sink or countertop through a pre-drilled hole with a diameter of 12 mm. If the hole is already occupied by the detergent dispenser, you can use a plug or drill a new one in a convenient location.
A plastic valve must be screwed onto the storage tank. The tank thread is standard, and the seal occurs due to the conical shape of the thread, so the use of additional seals, such as FUM tape, is usually not required and is not even recommended by the manufacturer. Tighten the valve by hand until it stops, applying moderate force.
- 🚰 Place the tap at least 5 cm from the edge of the sink for ease of use.
- 🛢 Install the tank vertically, providing access to the bottom tap for draining water during maintenance.
- 🔩 Check the air pressure in the tank (usually 0.6–0.8 atm) before connecting to the system.
After installing the external elements, we move on to the most important stage - connecting all the nodes with tubes. This is where questions most often arise from users looking for the right scheme. Color-coding the tubes and ports on the filters makes the task much easier if you follow the logic of water flow.
Color scheme for connecting Atoll tubes
Understanding the color coding of the tubes is the key to successfully assembling a reverse osmosis system. In systems Atoll, like most modern filters, uses a standard color scheme that helps you quickly identify the purpose of each port. The blue tube usually supplies raw water, the red tube supplies clean drinking water, and the black tube drains water to the drain.
The tubes must be cut strictly perpendicularly using a special pipe cutter or a very sharp knife. An uneven cut can lead to a leak in the fitting and subsequent leakage. When inserting a tube into a quick connect fitting (John Guest), you must remove the retaining ring, insert the tube until it stops, and return the ring to its place.
Below is a table describing the main connections for a standard 5-speed system. Please note that ports on filter housings may also be color coded or lettered (IN, OUT, W, P).
| Tube color | Purpose | Connection (From -> To) |
|---|---|---|
| Blue | Water inlet / outlet from stage 1 | Insertion into the water supply -> Inlet of the 1st filter |
| Red | Clean water | Membrane outlet -> Tank inlet / 5th filter |
| Black | Drainage (concentrate) | Membrane outlet (drain port) -> Sewerage |
| Green/Yellow | Inter-filter connections | Output 1st -> Input 2nd, etc. |
What should I do if the colors of the tubes do not match the ports?
With some modifications or when using universal tubes, colors may vary. In this case, be guided by the letter marking of the ports: IN (input), OUT (output), DRAIN (drain), TANK (tank). If there is no marking, follow the flow logic: water always flows sequentially through the pre-filters to the membrane.
Connection to water supply and sewerage
Insertion into the water supply is carried out using a special tee-inset, which is included in the kit. This element is placed on the cold water pipe, usually under the sink. Before installation, turn off the water supply tap to the apartment, relieve pressure by opening the tap on the mixer, and only then install the insert.
Connection to the sewer requires the installation of a special drainage clamp. It is mounted on a vertical section of the sewer pipe above the level of the siphon water seal to prevent clogging and reverse flow of water. A hole is drilled in the clamp into which a drainage tube is inserted, secured with a cone clamp.
It is important to ensure that the drainage tube does not become kinked or touch hot surfaces. Pressure the system may fluctuate during operation of the filter, and reliable fastening of all connections is critically important. After all tubing is connected, visually check each fitting again.
⚠️ Attention: Never connect a reverse osmosis filter to a hot water pipe. High temperatures will destroy the membrane and plastic elements of the system.
First start-up and flushing of the system
The first launch of the system is a stress test for all connections. Open the water supply valve in the insert and carefully watch for the appearance of moisture at the joints of the tubes and the lids of the flasks. If a leak is detected, immediately turn off the water, relieve pressure through the drain and tighten the problem connection.
An important step is washing the carbon filters and filling the tank. The water going into the drain in the first 15-20 minutes will contain coal dust, which is normal. The tank should be filled within 1-2 hours, after which its contents should be completely drained to rinse the inside of the container.
- 💧 Drain the first 2-3 full tanks of water without using it for drinking.
- 👀 Check the operation of the automatic valve: when the tank is full, water should not flow into the drain.
- 🗑 Make sure the drainage flow stops when the valve on the tank is closed.
Only after several filling and draining cycles will the water become suitable for consumption. At this moment, the system enters operating mode, and the automation begins to function normally, turning off the water supply when the maximum pressure in the tank is reached.
Diagnostics and (FAQ)
During operation, situations may arise that require user intervention. For example, if water is constantly flowing into the drain, this may indicate a faulty shutoff valve or low pressure in the system. If water does not fill the tank, it is worth checking the air pressure in the tank membrane.
Regular maintenance, including replacing pre-filters every 6 months and membranes every 1.5–2 years, will ensure stable operation Atoll. Don't ignore signs of decreased performance or changes in water taste—these are signs that maintenance is needed.
Write down the installation date of each cartridge on a sticker and stick it on the filter housing. This will help you remember about replacement dates and maintain water quality at a high level.
Understanding the operating principles of your water purification system not only allows you to save on calling technicians, but also ensures the safety of your family. A correctly assembled circuit is the key to long service life of the equipment.
Correct assembly according to the color scheme and tightness of connections are the main success factors when installing reverse osmosis Atoll.
Why does it take so long for water to fill the tank?
This may be caused by low pressure in the water supply (less than 2.8 atm), clogged pre-filters or membrane wear. Also check the air pressure in the empty tank - it should be about 0.6 atm.
You can hear the sound of running water even though the tap is closed. This is fine?
If water flows into the drain and the valve on the tank is closed, it means that the system is building up pressure or the valve is faulty. If the tank is full and water continues to flow into the sewer, the shutoff valve needs to be adjusted or replaced.
Is it possible to use tubes of a different color if there are not enough relatives?
The color of the tube does not affect its properties, it is only important to connect the ends correctly. However, using different colored tubes for different purposes (blue for dirty, red for clean) helps avoid confusion during future maintenance.
How often do you need to change cartridges in the Atoll system?
Mechanical and carbon prefilters (1, 2, 3 stages) are changed every 6 months. Post-charcoal filter (5th stage) - once a year. A reverse osmosis membrane lasts from 1.5 to 2.5 years, depending on the quality of the source water.